Parts

To all HYDROVANE owners:

  • TIPS – Please visit the TIPS section (under the INSTRUCTIONS tab) – you might find something that you did not know – or you could have an idea for a ‘tip’ that we should include – if so, please pass it along.
  • PHOTOS & VIDEOS – John or Will would be so happy to receive a picture of your HYDROVANE installation and/or any action or people shots that include the Hydrovane. Video footage would put us over the top!
  • INSTALLERS – We would like the co-ordinates of any boatyards or installers with experience with HYDROVANES. We are often asked for such. We will display them on our LINKS section.
  • UPGRADES FOR BIGGER OR FASTER BOATS – Recent improvements in the 1) Rudder, 2) Shaft 3) Con Rod/Bobbin and 4) bearings are BIG! If your boat is over 40′ you could get significant improvement in your Hydrovane’s performance with these upgrades – described below.

_______________________________________________________

For PARTS orders contact:

Sarah – sarah@hydrovane.com

For TECHNICAL questions contact:

John – john@hydrovane.com

Before you email for a PARTS order please first identify the proper part name and number – see listings and schematics at the bottom of the page

_______________________________________________________

PARTS LIST 

   
                    MODEL VXA 2 (worm drive – remote course setting)  
                    MODEL VXA 1 (manual course setting )   
               
Part Description Material   Part Description Material  
No. Quantity   No. Quantity  
1 Axle Sleeve p8   54 Top Frame Stud Set s2  
2 Case Screw p2   55 Shaft Bolt Set s2  
3 Bobbin p1   56 Ratio Bolt/Spring Set s1  
4 Vane Slot Collar p1   57 Ball Screw Set s1  
5 Vane Slot Peg p1   58 Fork Bolt Set s1  
6 Vane Slot Sleeve p2   59 Bottom Bearing Screw s1  
7 Vane Pin Sleeve p1   60 Vane Lock Pin s1  
8 Vane Axis Disc p1   61 Shaft Lock Pin s1  
9 Vane Axis Washer p1   62 Rudder Pin s1  
10 Tilt Bolt Sleeve p1   63 Con-rod a1  
11 Tilt Bolt Washer p1   64 Heading Tube s1  
12 Tilt Bolt Cover p1   65 Vane Lever c1  
13 Heading Clamp Spacer p1   66 Top Mounting c1  
14 Top Bearing p1   67 Weight Arm c1  
15 Bottom Bearing p1   68 Con-rod Top (old) c1  
16 Heading Collar p1   69 Bottom Lever c1  
17A Bobbin Washer s1   70 Ratio Arm c1  
17B Bobbin Cotter Pin s1   71 Fork Arm c1  
18 Lever Bearing p4   72 Top Frame c1  
19 Drive Sleeve p1   73 Main Frame c1  
20 Ball Socket p2   74 Balance Weight Pair c1  
21 Ratio Knob p1   75 Wind Vane Frame a/c1  
22 Shaft Lock Sleeve p1   76 Wind Vane Cover 1  
23 Tiller p/s1   77 Rudder p1  
24 Shaft Top Bearing p1   78 Bolt Sleeves p6  
24M Shaft Mid Bearing     79 Frame Case p1  
25 Shaft Bottom Bearing p1   79B LED Stern Light s  
26 Shaft Bottom Collar p1   79C Stern Light Bolt Set s  
27 Shaft Race Collar p1   80 Worm p1  
28 Race Collar Pin s1   81 Worm Bearings p2  
29S Rudder Tube S 757mm s   82 Grooved Wheel p1  
29M Rudder Tube M 986mm s   83 Grooved Wheel Screw s1  
29L Rudder Tube L 1240mm s   85 Worm Wheel p1  
29X Rudder Tube X 1494mm s   86 Worm Box (machined) c1  
30S Rudder Shaft S 979mm s   87 Worm Line Fairleads p2  
30M Rudder Shaft M 1208mm s   88 Worm Box Stud Set s1  
30L Rudder Shaft L 1462mm s   89 Gear Clamp Bolt Set s1  
30X Rudder Shaft X 1716mm s   90 Bearing Washer p1  
31 Shaft Ball Race p19   91 Remote Line Set 1  
32 Vane Knob p1   92 Worm End Plate    
33 Axis Knob p1   BRACKETS    
34 Heading Knob p1   100 H Mounting Flange c1  
35 Ratio Rod s1   101 H Shaft Clamp Pair c1  
36 Drive Rod s2   102 H Long Bolt Set s1  
37 Vane Bolt Set s1   103 H Short Bolt Set s1  
38 Axis Bolt Set s1   104 H Shaft Sleeve p1  
39 Heading Bolt Set s1   105 H Swivel Washer p2  
40 Axle Screw s8   106 E Transom Clamp Pair c1  
41 Tiller Screw s1   107 E Shaft Clamp Pair c1  
42 Drive Rod Screw s2   108 E Bolt Set s5  
43 Ball Socket Screw s2   109 E Shaft Sleeve p1  
44 Heading Tube Screw s1   110 E Stay Tube s1  
45 Ratio Screw s2   111 A Mounting Flange c2  
46 Shaft Collar Screw s1   112 A Stay Tube Clamp c4  
47 Axle s8   113 A Shaft Clamp c1  
48 Tilt Stop Stud s1   114 A Bolt Set s11  
49 Con-rod Bolt Set s1   114B A Bolt Set – Extendable s2  
50A Bobbin Bolt Set/Clevis Pin s1   115 A Shaft Sleeve p1  
50B Bobbin Igus Bushings p2   116 A Swivel Washer p4  
51 Heading Collar Screw s1   117 A Stay Tube s2  
52 Weight Arm Bolt Set s2   118 A Extendable Stay Tube Clamp c2  
53 Weight Bolt Set s1   119 A Saddle Washer a2  
        120 A Fulcrum a2  
               
Key to description: p –  plastic   s – stainless   a – alloy   c – casting    # – quantity
Course Setting: Parts in italics are VXA2 only    
               
            

SHAFT ASSEMBLY

The Shaft assembly includes an inner shaft and outer tube with 3 bearings and a Top Collar connecting the two. From 2002 onward all units have a 1¼”/31.75mm diameter shaft with a 2”/50.8mm outer Tube of 10 gauge (0.125 inch/3.175 mm) seamless ‘316’ stainless steel. Previously, a lighter shaft assembly was also available for vessels up to 43 ft L.O.A./30,000 lbs displacement (13m/13,500 kgs). That assembly had an 1 1/8 inch diameter shaft and the tube wall thickness was .080 inches. On re-order of shaft assembly parts it is most important that the shaft size is determined.             Part                            #

  • Top Bearing              24
  • Mid Bearing              24M
  • Bottom Bearing          25
  • Bottom Collar            26
  • Race Collar               27
  • Race Collar Pin          28
  • Shaft Outer Tube      29
  • Shaft                      30
  • Shaft Ball Race          31

Size                Length: Inches – mm Shaft Outer Tube Part # 29

  • S             29 13/16 – 757
  • M             38 13/16 – 986
  • L              48 13/16 – 1240
  • X              58 13/16 – 1494

Shaft Part # 30

  • S             38 9/16 – 979
  • M             47 9/16 – 1208
  • L              57 9/16 – 1462
  • X              67 9/16 – 1716

 PARTS – PRICE LIST – NOVEMBER 2016

Note – Prices provided do not include VAT or any other taxes

PART NAME
PART #
GBP₤
EURO€
US$
CDN$
BOTTOM COLLAR – STAINLESS STEEL
26
16
19
20
28
BOTTOM COLLAR – OLD – PLASTIC
26
9
10
11
15
CON ROD UPGRADE KIT
3,17,50,57,63
102
122
132
178
COVER – VANE
76
63
76
82
111
COVER – DRIVE UNIT
 
60
72
78
105
FLAGSTAFF HOLDER
75E
42
50
54
73
FRAME CASE
79
33
40
43
58
FRAME CASE SCREW
2
1
1
1
2
FRAME CASE & LED
79
102
123
133
179
KNOBS
32, or 33, NN
5
6
6
8
KNOB KIT – VANE
4,6,32,37,NN
12
14
16
21
KNOB KIT – AXIS 12,33,NN 12 15 16 21

LOCKING PINS

60, 61, 62

12

14

16

21

RATIO KNOB KIT – BOLT & SPRING 21, 56 11 14 15 20
TILLER
23
24
28
31
41
TIMBER PADS
 
32
38
41
55
T SHIRTS
 
10
12
13
18
W&S BRACKET
 
345
414
448
604
XT VANE
 
365
438
475
639
 
 
 
 
 
 
OFFSHORE SPARES KIT
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
VANE COVER
76
63
76
82
111
2 LOCKING PINS
60, 61, 62
24
29
31
42
DRIVE SLEEVE
19
3
3
3
4
BOTTOM BEARING
25
22
26
28
38
TOTAL
 
112
134
145
195
 
 
 
 
 
 
BEARING KIT
 
 
 
 
 
SHAFT RACE COLLAR & PIN
27, 28
10
12
13
17
BEARINGS, NYLON BALLS  – 19
31
3
4
4
6
BEARING, TOP – DELRIN
24
9
11
12
16
BEARING, MID – PTFE
24B
14
16
18
24
BEARING, BOTTOM – GLASS FILLED PTFE
25
22
26
28
38
BOTTOM COLLAR – STAINLESS (New)
26
16
19
20
28
DRIVE SLEEVE – NYLATRON GS
19
3
3
3
4

TOTAL

 

76

91

99

133

 

RUDDER 

“Biggest improvement in performance in 30 years”

“… 50% more power & easier to control …”

In 2006 the rudder length was increased – added about 20% more power. In July 2009 we changed the rudder again:

  • Making it thicker (24% more material)
  • Higher lift coefficent – maybe 50% more power
  • Better balance – light to the touch – easier to control

IMPROVED SHAFT RECOMMENDED – To support this rudder one of the new stronger 1 1/4″ ‘Super Duplex’ shafts (standard since January 2009) is a must … and the new bearings, especially the new Mid Bearing.

We feel that this new rudder is the most significant improvement in the performance of the Hydrovane since the Variable Axis was invented in 1980.

Price – See PRICES page for current pricing for Rudder

                       

Rudders – short one late 70’s to 2006, next or left tall one 2006 to Spring 2009, furthest back since July 2009

_______________________________________________________

FRAME CASE WITH LED STERN LIGHT 

                                 

Ideal location for a stern light – on the Hydrovane cover (Frame Case)

  • Higher than the usual positions
  • Clear sight line aft – no obstructions
  • LED light rated at 3NM – burns only 1.5W or 0.1amps
  • New white Frame Case designed with a vertical face – points light dead aft
  • Simple 2 wire 12V DC wiring

_______________________________________________________

BOBBIN & CON ROD ASSEMBLY

Introduced in Spring 2010

  • Virtually unbreakable (33X stronger than the old version)
  • Provides a ‘tighter’, more controlled movement.

    

Left – New version with Con Rod fitted directly into the Bobbin ….. Right – old version with elbow connection. We no longer manufacture the old Bobbbin and related parts.

_______________________________________________________

FLAGSTAFF HOLDER

  • Made of anodized aluminium

                                                                   

_______________________________________________________

TIMBER PADS

made from Iroko or African Teak

‘Timber Pads’ – are spacers shaped to pick up the difference in contour between the flat flange of the Hydrovane bracket and the curve of the hull at the point the bracket is attached. The Hydrovane flange must be bolted to a perfectly flat surface.

The Timber Pads we offer are made of an African wood that is very similar to teak – called Iroko or commonly called African Teak. The color of Iroko is initially yellowish but darkens to a richer brown over time. The wood is used for a variety of purposes including boat-building, domestic flooring and furniture. It is a very durable wood. Iroko does not require regular treatment with oil or varnish when used outdoors.

                    

Timber pads for the ‘H’, ‘E’ and ‘A’ bracket flanges – pads are slightly oversized with a radius/bullnose edge. For the ‘H’ only we also have a ‘spacer’, which is  about 1.125 in./28mm thick, without the radius/bullnose  – if the bracket must be extended outward.

_____________________________________________________

DRIVE UNIT COVER

Made of heavy duty Sunbrella in ‘Captain Navy’

_______________________________________________________

 

LOCKING PINS

We now have a much improved ‘locking pin’ (since 2005) – the pin that is used in three different locations. Each unit has 3 locking pins – all the same size and interchangeable. All should have tethers to prevent them from falling overboard:

  1. #62 – Rudder Lock Pin – suffers from metal fatigue over time – recommend regular replacement and/or rotation with the other pins
  2. #61 – Shaft Lock Pin
  3. #60 – Vane Lock Pin

The pin has a rigid welded ring at the end – ideal for using a boat hook to ‘pop’ out the rudder lock pin. The spare pin comes complete with a nylon lanyard and an ‘R’ pin – so that the rudder lock pin can be held secure.

VANE COVERS

The vane cover could last several years in the tropics – depending on the amount of exposure to the sun – best to stow when not in use. Over the years the vane has grown in height in order to produce better light air performance. Arches, radar masts, antennas, mizzens etc. can be interfering for those longer vanes. For those we provide our ‘Stubby’ vane that is 11 in. ( 280 mm) shorter but 8 in. (200 mm) wider. It will produce comparable power and better accommodate aft deck obstacles.

Standard & stubby vanes - low res

Standard and Stubby Vanes

RED VANES – All our vanes are red – a safety colour – visible to aircraft. For more detail on the vanes see the specifications page at: http://www.hydrovane.com/our-product/specifications/ – scroll down to find:  AIRSPACE REQUIRED – PROBLEMATIC AERIAL OBSTRUCTIONS ON AFT END?

_______________________________________________________

NEW BOTTOM COLLAR

None of the plastic versions truly held up and the aluminum was a bad idea. We have finally done what we should have done a long time ago – switched to  stainless.  It cost a bit more but it will never crack. 

It is only a spacer – no other function – positioned to help locate the right height for the rudder – so the locking pin is easy to insert………..and keep the shaft from jumping up in a heavy sea.  

NEW BEARINGS

In 2008 we made two big changes to the bearings:

  1. NEW MID BEARING – We discovered that, at speed, the shaft could flex a bit to cause the bottom bearing to crimp and stick – not long enough to be noticeable, unless you are watching for it. The new Mid Bearing made of PTFE solves the sticking – a definite improvement – especially for faster boats with longer shafts.
  2. PET BOTTOM BEARING – In 2010 we switched to a white PET material for the Bottom Bearing – superior bearing material to the prior black Delrin/Acetal version.

Typically, only the Bottom Bearing wears enough to merit replacement – but when making the switch it is an ideal time to replace/upgrade all 3 bearings.

For instructions on changing the bearings see #12 – ‘Bearings – Replace Rudder Shaft Bearings’ under the INSTRUCTIONS tab.

For Pre 2002 units – When ordering bearings it is helpful for us to know the vintage of your equipment. If you can measure the Inside Diameter (ID) of the outer tube – here is a helpful guide:

  • Pre 2002
    • 1 1/8” (28.575 mm.) shaft – tube is 46.8mm ID
    • 1 ¼” shaft (31.75 mm.) – tube is 44.4mm ID
  • Post 2002 – all shafts are 1 1/4″ (31.75 mm.) – tube is machined to 46mm ID

_______________________________________________________

OLDER UNITS

For older units the most likely items for replacement or upgrade are:

  1. Part #25 Shaft Bottom Bearing (now made of a glass filled PET)– best get the full ‘Bearing Kit’ – Part #s 24, 24M & 25 – Top, Mid & Bottom Bearings – See comments above about the Mid Bearing
  2. Part #26 Bottom Collar made of ‘316’ stainless steel. Solves all prior issues of cracking plastics.
  3. Part #19 Drive Sleeve (it also can be ‘end for ended’ to double its life – it develops wear grooves – see INSTRUCTIONS – #14) – included in the ‘Offshore Spares Kit’
  4. Part #s 32 and 33 – Vane & Axis Knobs – new version, since 2005, is far tougher and improved with a nyloc nut to prevent the knobs from spinning off (a problem with the old knobs)  – now available in kits that include the additional parts that were probably lost when the original knob fell off – assuming a lost knob is your problem.
  5. Part #29 – Shaft – now standard (since January 2009 or so) is a ‘super duplex’ steel shaft – nearly three times as strong as the old ‘316 version!! – but only for the 1 1/4″ diameter shafts. This shaft is a ‘must’ for the new rudder. To determine which shaft you have look at the bottom: the old ‘316’ version has a rounded radius at the bottom. The new ‘super duplex’ ones have a straight 15 degree taper.
  6. Part #74 – Lead Weights – For models post 1986 – In 2006 or so we switched to an improved weight set – one side much heavier. For improved light air performance consider an upgrade.
  7. Part #68 – Con Rod Top casting – In the spring of 2010 we improved the design by eliminating that casting. The Con Rod now fits directly into the Bobbin. The fit is tighter making the system more responsive and it is stronger – way stronger – 33 times stronger.
  8. Part #77 – Rudder – We keep improving the rudder making it first longer then fatter for more lift. We also have moved the shaft hole position to achieve a more balanced rudder that is easier to turn. The version produced from July 2009 to July 2011, with its shaft hole at 71mm aft of the leading edge was so well balanced that if the shaft hole direction was off by half a degree in the wrong direction the result was a rudder that did not know which direction was forward – was ‘wonky’ . Most of the rudders produced during that period are excellent performers – but there are exceptions that need replacing. Since July 2011 our rudder has a shaft hole position that is more conservative at 59mm aft of the leading edge. In July 2013 onward the shaft hole is at 56mm.
  9. ‘A’ Bracket – all parts on the outboard end including the 3 castings – In the fall of 2013 we introduced an improved ‘A’ Bracket. The old version was quite flexible but the arms were rigid at an angle of 40 degrees. The arms can now be set at any angle from 40 degrees to 80 degrees – making our most flexible bracket even more flexible.

_______________________________________________________

From: Chuck Hogan [mailto:c.r.hogan@comcast.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 9:38 AM
Subject: Penetrating Oil study – a 50/50 mix of Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid is best!
 
I found this very interesting…….I think you will as well.
 
Penetrating Oils –Machinist’s Workshop magazine recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted” environment.
 
Penetrating oils ……….. Average torque load to loosen
  • No Oil used                    516 pounds
  • WD-40                           238 pounds
  • PB Blaster                     214 pounds
  • Liquid Wrench               127 pounds
  • Kano Kroil                     106 pounds
  • ATF*-Acetone mix        53 pounds
* The ATF-Acetone mix is a “home brew” mix of 50 – 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this “home brew” released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that “Liquid Wrench” is almost as good as “Kroil” for about 20% of the price.   Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.