We regularly update this section - for ideas provided by customers or problems that arise. Although we do provide a hard copy with new units, it is usually dated - always best to check here on the website.
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We cannot direct the winds, but we can adjust our sails.
1. GENERAL
INSTALLATION 'IN THE WATER' OR 'ON THE HARD'? - We prefer the 'in the water' installation - certainty where the waterline is and 'vertical' is equally apparent.
INSTALLATION - USE '2 INCH OD' PVC PIPES AS DUMMIES FOR THE SHAFT AND BRACKET STRUTS - Both the shaft and struts are sized as 'Imperial' or non metric - 2" (inch) - precisely 50.8 mm. - 'Outside Dimaeter' (OD). In North America there is a common 2" PVC pipe that is cheap and readily available and I believe there is a European equivalent - 50 mm OD. Use that pipe as 'dummies' for the shaft and struts to help position and determine the length to cut the struts.
TIMBER PADS - BRACKET FLANGES MUST BE PERFECTLY FLUSH - See WARNING #5 below - The bracket flanges must be bolted to perfectly flat surfaces. If there is any curvature at the positon the bracket is bolted a 'timber pad' or 'spacer' must be fashioned to pick up that difference.
TIMBER PADS - TEAK or "PHENOLIC PLASTIC" - The common choice of material for a timber pad is teak - looks good and easy to work with. But if the pad needs to be thick (over 1 inch or 25mm) a far superior choice is a synthetic - a 'phenolic plastic' - comes in various forms (Micarta, G10 and Tufnol are some brand names - there are others). A marine grade can be found in sheets up to 2 inches or 50mm. thick. Numbers of pieces can be attached with epoxy. Like teak it can be shaped with a sander or, as it is much harder, a grinder. Epoxy can be used to fill any cavities but you might not want to have it fixed to the transom with epoxy - use a liner/separator between the timber pad and the transom. Also suitable are various other plastics like Delrin/Acetal, polyurethane etc. They can be found in pieces of up to 4 in./10 cm. thick - which is handy as such plastic is NOT gluable.
TIMBER PADS - MAXIMUM THICKNESS - Our old recommendation for a maximum thickness of timber pad was 4 in. or 100 mm. but that can be increased somewhat if the much harder phenolic plastics are used - then the challenge is to find bolts of sufficient length. For greater distances/thicknesses a stainless steel extension must be fabricated.
TIMBER PADS or BACKING PLATES - EPOXY or FIBREGLASS RESIN SPACER - To fill any gaps between the bracket flange or the backing plates and the transom: mix a suitable quantity of epoxy or fibreglass resin and put it into a Saran Wrap or plastic pouch - fitted between the bracket flange and hull - tighten bolts - before the epoxy or resin hardens you must cut or mould the material to the desired shape - carving away any surplus - must be nimble - once hardened that stuff is brutal to work with.
TIMBER PADS - MAKING A TEMPLATE - Provided by Scott Rosenthal (Bristol 40 yawl): I made a template of the transom curvature by laminating cereal box cardboard to the shape. I taped a piece of cardboard on the transom where the bracket was going. I then laminated additional sheets of cardboard on top on the taped-down one and used a hot glue gun as the adhesive for the laminate. The template came off the transom with the correct curvature, which is now my template for cutting the Starboard.
TIMBER PADS - CONTOURING THE TIMBER PADS FOR CURVED SURFACES - Provided by Scott Ritchie - ‘Folkes 39’ - of Seattle – “I taped a sheet of 3M 'Sandblaster' 60 grit (this paper cuts amazingly fast and doesn't load up) to my curved deck and transom where the pads would be mounted. I then drew indicating lines on each teak timber pad then began to "Holystone" in reverse! (see photo) I would check the indicating lines to adjust the cutting evenly and to know when I was finished. No need to climb into the lazzerette to do the backing pads. Simply use double-stick tape and fix the sandpaper to the finished pads and again go back and forth until the indicator lines for the backing pads evenly disappear.
Will, this made a perfect joint between the teak timber pads and the curved deck and transom that you couldn't slip a cigarette paper under anywhere. It looks like the Incas made it.”
" .... drew indicating lines on each teak timber pad then began to "Holystone" in reverse!"
FITTING BOLTS IN IMPOSSIBLE LOCATIONS - From Malcolm Morling in the UK malcolm.morling@talk21.com , an installer - see his listing under LINKS then INSTALLERS: I have had my fabricator make the backing plates with the bolts welded to them along with a tang from the bolt. I then drill the 2 10mm holes in the transom and feed in 2 wires, apply silicon to the plate and attach the wires to the tangs then pull the plates into place with the wires. Finally trimming and dressing the bolts when all secure. This method has saved a couple of owners who had been quoted for expensive access panel work.
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BOLTS - The unit does not come with any bolts for bolting the brackets to the transom - as the bolt length is a big variable. Best is the metric M10 bolt - the Imperial 3/8 inch is next best. For longer lengths use a long piece of threaded rod - cut as required using washers and nyloc nuts on both ends. After hack sawing off the excess it is wise to file down the rough/sharp end bits.
INSTALLING THE VANE COVER - Use silicone spray - This nearly is a MUST! - it makes the job so much easier. Spray the tube and inside the vane cover - spray the seam that must slide over the tube.
- Start the lace in the holes nearest the casting. The finish will need only half a knot or two hitches - then it is easy to bury the ends.
- Cinch it tight enough to remove the wrinkles. The cloth is very stretchy.
- Initially you will think it is too small - keep cinching - it will fit......and it will not rip. We often see vane covers with big gaps at the bottom – those gaps should not be there – cinch it up!
COMPARE 'STUBBY' VERSUS 'STANDARD' VANE - Technically the stubby has equal power to the standard vane. In reality the height of the top of the vane is critical - there is more wind higher above the water. The standard vane, in some or many conditions will reach stronger wind than the stubby. Nearby aerial equipment is also a factor - such obstructions above deck level will cause an air buffer resulting in some of the wind going up and over it all - slowing the speed and mass of the wind at lower levels - just as the waves do. The conclusion is that the standard vane is a better performer, especially if there are nearby obstructions. The degree of difference in performance might or might not be much to be concerned about - all dependent on those variables: wind strength, wind direction, wave height and mass and proximity of aerial obstructions.
REMOTE COURSE SETTING LINE - MAKING AN ENDLESS LOOP - The line provided is intended to be threaded through two eyes and around the wheel that drives the worm gear. The length should be tailored to your needs - to be set-up somewhere handy to the cockpit -include the small block provided in your loop - when welded, you can attach that block to a bungy chord that positions the line where you want it.
Cut the line to length then make a heat weld to the butt ends. Three hands are better than two for the heat weld.
HEAT WELD - For the Remote Course Setting Line
- Someone holding a lighter or gas flame
- Heat the ends until they are gooey
- Then stick the two ends together
- Best to have already licked your fingers then pat down the joint to make it consistent.
- You can always get more line. We prefer sail maker’s 'leach line' - has a straight core - so it will fray less when cut.
MAINTENANCE - 1) CLEANING 2) CORROSION INHIBITOR 3) SETTINGS
1) CLEANING: NO GREASE - JUST WASH - The unit needs only a regular washing with fresh water and periodic cleaning with soap and water. At sea – even a dousing with a bucket of sea water will remove most of the salt build-up. If there is any salt build up in hard to reach places simply bathe in vinegar. It will dissolve the salt. After treatment with vinegar all vinegar should be thoroughly washed away.
2) CORROSION INHIBITOR – We encourage periodic spraying of the grey aluminum castings with a ‘corrosion inhibitor’. WD40 is OK but better yet are some suggestions:
- Lanocote - www.forespar.com - used on all bore holes during assembly
- CorrosionX - www.corrosionx.com
- T-9 – BOESHIELD – www.boeshield.com
- LPS3 - www.lpslabs.com
- .... and many others – use your favourite
We have talked to the people at Forespar and CorrosionX. Both have compelling performance reports on their products which are corroborated by stories from customers.... as follows:
CorrosionX - a penetrant, dielectric and anti-corrosive – From their literature: “A supervisor in a maintenance facility for a major oil company called it an ‘inventory reducer’ because they use it for so many different applications”.
A Hydrovane customer comments on CorrosionX and Tef Gel:
"Corrosion X seems very good. It is oil based, and is designed for the solvent to evaporate, leaving a dry slightly waxy surface after several days. I have used it for about 2 years, first on my new inboard engine, and then on a number of steel tools - hammers, pliers etc. It does seem to make a difference - the engine still looks new, and even spots where there is some salt water exposure (engine coupling) it looks much better than I would otherwise expect, but does not entirely prevent rust, so it is permeable. Tef Gel is a teflon containing sticky gel, that is primarily meant for putting on bolts and screws to inhibit corrosion - especially where stainless steel is in contact with aluminum - for instance, mast and boom fittings. It definitely makes dismantling much easier, where it otherwise would likely have resulted in breakage of the pieces in any attempt to remove them. It never seems to dry out completely, but gets very sticky. It is very expensive - 10 ml cost me about $30."
- No grease!
- Wash with soap and fresh water
- Periodic spraying with a corrosion inhibitor
3) SETTINGS - No need to make any adjustments to the Drive Unit. The units, as delivered, should never need any adjustment - NEVER. All 8 of the axles that the upper and lower levers rotate on never show any wear - well, negligble wear - even after 100s of thousands of miles. Those axles are held in place by set screws. Best leave those set screws alone. They are locked in place with Loctite and can get further fixed with some oxidation - which is good - keeps them in place. The only wear item is Part #19 Drive Sleeve - but it lasts 20,000 miles or so - and even then can be 'end for ended' for another 20K - see INSTRUCTION # 14. If/when the Drive Sleeve is changed, be sure to put Loctite on the threads of the set screw that holds it in place.
RUST ON THE BRONZE FORK ARM AND RATIO ARM - Rust like spots may appear on the bronze castings - yes, just like rust on steel....as that is what it is. No, the casting is not steel. It is solid bronze - actually a silicon bronze alloy - very strong and perfectly compatible with the stainless steel that it is connected to. In the 'shot blasting' process some steel residue remains on the surface of the bronze. In due course it should rust/oxidize away.
POSITIONING BOTTOM COLLAR - When the installation is complete – put on the rudder and insert its locking pin. You can then re-set the bottom collar so that it touches the rudder – sits right on top of the rudder. That will help each time you install the rudder – it puts the rudder at the right height – easier to find the hole for the locking pin. Lastly, take care not to bang the rudder up against the collar and knock it out of position causing it to bind on the bottom collar – resulting in poor/sticky performance of the Hydrovane - see WARNINGS #9 and #10 below.
INSTALLING THE RUDDER - BUNGEE HOLDS IT UP - Put a loop in your rudder tether line and hook a bungee inline so that you have to push down slightly to get the rudder under the shaft then let go and the bungee lifts it up into position. It's very easy to pin the rudder if you don't have to hold it up too.......thanks to Scott Ritchie for this. Of course, remember to undo the bungee when in operation - as it might corrupt its movement.
REFLECTIVE TAPE - NIGHT VISION - From a Moody 38, 'EQUINOX' - Gordon Campion puts 2 bits of reflective tape
on the flat parts of the chrome end of the Worm Gear. At night he can see how much he adjusts the Course Setting - each reflection (half turn) equals 3 degrees change in course. He also puts relective tape on the Tiller so he can see if the boat is 'on course' or not.
- WARNING - SHAFT ASSEMBLY OFTEN KNOCKED LOOSE IN SHIPPING – Shippers are famous for dropping/throwing the shaft on its end. No damage done – only the bearing needs knocking back in place. The typical result is that the top bearing separates a bit – usually ¼ in. (5 to 10 mm) or so. At the top of the tube, the top bearing – was black delrin plastic, now white PTFE - should be a flush joint with the stainless tube. Simply turn the shaft upside down and tap the end on concrete – it all should fall into place - well, then the BOTTOM COLLAR will also need to be re-set – see below. To test that all is well, in thatupside down position -spin the outer tube. It should freely spin for a bit as it is sittingon the ball bearings of the upper bearing. Then turn it upside right and spin the outer tube again. It will not be as free but free enough - now slowed a bit by the bottom friction bearing.
- WARNING - LEAD WEIGHTS HIDDEN IN DRIVE UNIT BOX – ALSO THE TILLER FORK ARM - Do not throw out the drive unit box until you have liberated the lead weights - under a cardboard flap. They weigh 10 lbs. (4.5 kg.) - hard to believe that some have missed them. Ditto goes for the Tiller Fork Arm - it too is sometimes left in the box.
- WARNING – NEED TO MAKE BACKING PLATES SUPPORTING THE THRU-HULL BOLTS/NUTS – It is best to over engineer the structure of the backing plates – pieces of stainless plate are perfect – at the minimum use more than the standard washers – perhaps a build up of thick gauge fender washers or marine plywood. Be sure the plate is flush to the washer and nut. Fill any voids between the plate and the hull with epoxy or fibreglass resin.
- WARNING - BOLT TIGHTENING SEQUENCE - CRITICAL FOR ‘E’ BRACKETS - When installing the brackets it is critical that the 'Bolt Tightening Sequence' be adhered to – see INSTRUCTIONS - especially for the 'E' bracket. The purpose of the tightening sequence is for the clamps to fully lock onto or grip the tubes. If done improperly the clamp will be cock-eyed and eventually work free – hardly any bite or grip on the tube ... and it will soon work loose – leaving the entire unit barely hanging on by the one remaining bracket ... if found early enough!
- WARNING - BRACKET FLANGE MUST BE PREFECTLY FLUSH TO TIMBER PAD/SPACER OR HULL - If there is any curvature at all at the point where a bracket is bolted to the transom a 'Timber Pad' or 'spacer' must be fashioned to pick up that difference. The bracket casting cannot flex - will break if it is not on a truly flat surface.
- WARNING - MISTAKES OF PROFESSIONAL INSTALLERS - Sometimes skilled tradesman make sloppy mistakes. Here are some common ones that you should check for:
- Item #4 above - re bolt tightening sequence. This is potentially dangerous - especially if you have an 'E' bracket - best to double check that it was done properly. Also check the timber pad to be sure the angle is right - bracket sits flush on the timber pad.
- Item #2 above - re lead weights - too common - box thrown away with Lead Weights and Fork Arm still hidden under flaps
- Drive unit on cock-eyed. Go to item 4 below - FINAL INSPECTION TESTS - do the first three tests or at least make sure the installer does them.
- No Backing Plates for Bolts – see #3 above. Boatyard installers can be too basic in their work. Where an owner would intuitively 'over engineer' a tradesman might be pressed to get the job done and be minimal in treatment of key structural elements - like Backing Plates. Standard washers are not good enough - especially for production boats in places where the fibreglass is not so thick.
- WARNING – TETHERS FOR RUDDER & LOCKING PINS – Keep a tether on the rudder whenever it is attached. It does not float. All locking pins should also be tethered.
- WARNING – (All units pre the fall of 2006) VANE and AXIS LOCKING KNOBS – can easily be spun off – then typically fall overboard. They only need a partial turn to loosen. It might be wise to drill a small hole in the knobs and attach a string/tether. NOTE - We now have knobs that include a nyloc locking nut that solves this problem - but the old vane axis bolt is not long enough to accommodate the nyloc nut.
- WARNING - ROTATE THE LOCKING PINS - The rudder locking pin can suffer from metal fatigue, over time. It is wise to rotate it with the other two locking pins from time to time………and eventually replace with a new one.
- WARNING - OVER TIGHTENING THE BOTTOM COLLAR – NOTE - new metal version available now - One is so easily tempted to over tighten the set screw on the bottom collar (black plastic above the rudder) causing the collar to split. That screw only needs to slightly dig into the steel tube. The collar is not holding anything up so it does not have to be very secure. Make it snug and nothing more.
- WARNING - BOTTOM COLLAR BINDING ON BEARING - When installing the rudder it is easy to bang it against the bottom collar - and knock the collar up against the bottom bearing. Periodically check that there is a hair of space between the 'collar' and 'bearing'. If not, you will feel it when wiggling the tiller. See TEST #4 below.
- WARNING - GALLING OF STAINLESS STEEL BOLTS AND NYLOC NUTS - Stainless nuts and bolts, when under load, can seize up and become impossible to loosen - the only solution is to crank hard and snap the bolt. That is why rigging screws are typically made with bronze barrels. This problem is exacerbated by bits of stray stainless steel or other grit and especially if the nut and bolt threads are cut to a tight tolerance. Some good practices to help solve the galling:
- Clean the thread of any residual bits - wire brush, wipe or blow
- If there are any burrs left from manufacturing, clip them off and file smooth the rough edge.
- Use a lubricant before tightening - we use a 'high pressure bearing grease - Morris K43EP Lithium Multipurpose Grease (KEP) - http://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=134
- It is wise to use non stainless steel nuts (plain steel, plastic etc.) when positioning as ‘dummies’ and only use the stainless nuts for the final assembly.
- Never use an electric air drill – the speed and pressure causes heat which makes matters worse.
- WARNING - HARMONIC VIBRATON CAUSED BY ENGINE - Some boats find that when the engine is running at certain RPMs that the Hydrovane rudder develops considerable vibration. Try securing the rudder with a heavy duty shock chord - to deaden the vibration. Cinch it up with force – the Hydrovane can take it. This vibration will certainly exacerbate a growing shaft hole.
- WARNING - SHAFT HOLE IN RUDDER CAN GROW - If bits of sand get into the shaft hole in the rudder they work as a grinder - ever enlarging the hole. In fact, once it enlarges the process accelerates and the rattle of the rudder gets worse. It would help to remove the rudder when not in use or when motoring to cinch it up very tightly, use heavy shock chords. Incorporate into the cinch a heavy rubber strop - perhaps like those used ondocking spring lines - stops it from working loose - keeps it always taught. For those over sized holes the best solution is a new rudder. An alternative is for a good machine shop to re-bore the hole and insert a stainless steel sleeve. The boring requires a precision low speed drill with coolant and the rudder locked in position – not a job for amateurs or inadequate equipment.
CHECK FOR FRICTION - Periodically, it is wise to get familiar with the amount of friction in the system so that you can be aware if it starts to lose its responsiveness. With the rudder detached and the ratio control in neutral – right hand setting – then move the tiller from side to side then push it slightly and let go – it should not do an immediate stop – but keep moving with momentum. It should be evident by its movements that there is almost no friction. Next engage the unit by moving the ratio control to any setting on the left. Give a gentle push to the lead weights – the vane must be attached. Once pushed the moving parts of the assembly should keep on moving from the momentum. If it stops quickly then there is some friction that needs correcting.
EVERY JOINT SHOULD RATTLE – If any of the axles (although this should only be done after 100s of thousands of miles - see comments above on MAINTENANCE), shafts or bearings are removed for cleaning or adjustment, the unit should be reassembled so that there is slight but noticeable end play between the moving parts – “every joint should rattle”. The HYDROVANEis designed to ‘rattle’ – so, do not re-set those joints to remove the ‘rattle’ or ‘looseness’. The purpose of the loose joints is twofold:
- There must be room for a delay in the transition froma course changein one direction to a course change in the opposite direction. Otherwise the system would be ‘on’ all the time – another type of ‘over steering’.
- The joints need spaceto accommodate salt and dirt build-up. Otherwise a tight system soon becomes too tight causing unnecessary friction and poor performance. Meaning well, many owners and even skilled tradesman mistakenly tighten up those loose joints. There are 4 pairs of set screws that control the ‘looseness’:
- A pair of axles holding the ‘bobbin’ - part 3
- A pair of axles holding the vane axis disc – part 8
- A pair of axles holding the ratio arm – part 70
- A pair of ball sockets (part 20) holding the ball screw set – part 57
The degree of looseness should be just enough to feel a ‘tic’ – less than a millimeter - when moving the part back and forth. Cumulatively all those little spaces result in a fairly loose feeling when the tiller is jiggled.
When finished re-setting check that the relevant parts are still ‘centered’:
- The ratio rod (part 35) sits in the middle of the drive shaft when the ratio control is set in the ‘neutral’ (right hand) position
- The ‘bobbin’ is centered.
- The ‘vane axis disc’ is centered
REMOVAL OF RUDDER WHEN NOT IN USE
We are often asked for a ‘flip-up’ arrangement to get the rudder out of the water when not in use. Our focus has always been to make the system as reliable as possible – fearful of introducing potential weaknesses that could compromise the Hydrovane’s integrity. It is the worst of conditions that find the weakest link.
Most do remove their rudders – only installing for passages. Boats without platforms or steps might consider the exercise of getting in a dinghy to install the Hydrovane rudder too much of a nuisance, preferring to leave it on …… although merit to that: then it is always ready to go for ‘emergency steering’.
Reasons for removal of rudder when not in use:
- GROWTH - Practically no growth on the rudder when the boat is at sea as salt water scours it clean – assumes boat speed – the faster the speed the cleaner the rudder. [Of course, it can be painted with anti-fouling.]
- ANNOYING RATTLE – It can rattle with motion of the water or boat when moored or on the hook – annoying if a berth is adjacent to the transom.
- SHAFT HOLE GROWS LARGER - Any bits of grit that get into the shaft hole will act as a grinder, enlarging the hole.
- MANEOUVERABILITY IN MARINAS – When the Hydrovane shaft is locked (required when motoring) the boat is less manoeuvrable. [When needed - best to have a free set of hands to steer the rudder – two rudders are better than one.] Note – On arrival at a marina, if accessible with a boat hook, the rudder Locking Pin is easily ‘popped out’ – and the rudder shipped aboard with its tether.
Some techniques and improvements to facilitate rudder removal:
- PLATFORM OR STEPS – A big help.
- BUNGY CHORD TO HOLD RUDDER UP WHEN INSTALLING – Set a big bungy chord in place during the install procedure so that the rudder will lift up by itself once on the shaft – freeing up a hand so the Locking Pin can be inserted.
- BOTTOM COLLAR - Our new metal Bottom Collar with its double set screws would help as a good stopper at the correct position for the rudder.
- BEVELS – Older units can be arduous to install. A big improvement is the 15 degree bevels we now have on both the mouth of the shaft hole in the rudder and at the bottom of the shaft – guides the rudder in place. A machine shop could easily make those bevels on older shafts and rudders.
- Shaft Lock Pin #61 should be easy to insert.
- If not then loosen the main frame and try again
2. IS IT ON STRAIGHT? TILLER IN LINE WITH RUDDER
- Insert Vane Lock Pin #60
- Insert Shaft Lock Pin #61
- Set ratio control to the far left setting - puts the Ratio Rod pointing downwards at 45 degrees to the right
- The Ratio Rod #35 should fit between the two Drive Rods #36 without touching – move the Ratio Knob #21 back and forth – from Neutral on the right to the 3:1 setting on the left – should move freely without touching.
- Check that the Drive Sleeve #19 spins freely and does not bind on either of the Drive Rods #36.
3. DRIVE UNIT ON SQUARE - The tiller must be on a true 180 degree setting parallel to the centreline of the boat. If it is off, it is like trying to walk while you are leaning 5 degrees to starboard. With the rudder locking pin #61 inserted, try sticking a ¾” (12mm) dowel or rod into the hole in the tiller or a tube over it - 1 ½” (38mm) ID tube. The purpose is to make it visually more obvious if the tiller is on a true 180 degree setting parallel to the centreline of the boat.
4. CON ROD ALIGNMENT- DRIVE SLEEVE (#19) SPINS FREELY
- Insert Vane Lock Pin #60
- Insert Shaft Lock Pin #61
- Set ratio control to the far left setting - puts the Ratio Rod pointing downwards at 45 degrees to the right
- Check that the ‘drive sleeve’ spins freely and does not bind on either of the ‘drive rods’ #36.
5. FRICTION TEST FOR SHAFT – BOTTOM COLLAR TOUCHING BOTTOM BEARING – * COMMON PROBLEM * - OR PTFE BEARINGS HAVE SWOLLEN WHICH IS NOT A PROBLEM
- Set ratio control in ‘neutral’ or far right position
- Flip the tiller back and forth. It must freely move from side to side with only the slightest push. If it stops before going fully over then check the bottom collar #26. There must be a hair of space between it and the bottom bearing #25. Do NOT over-tighten the set screw on the collar. It only needs to be slightly tight. It is too easy to split the collar.
- If you have the new PTFE (white) bearings and the unit is new it could be that the bearings have swollen with the humidity and are a bit tight on the shaft. If so, this test does not work. Once the bearings are 'broken in' the test should work.
6. RATTLE TEST – OVERALL
- Set ratio control in gear – any position except far right
- Jiggle the tiller vigorously. There should be considerable rattle as there must be a bit of ‘play’ at every joint. NOTE – It is highly unlikely that this problem would be found in new units.
7. RATTLE TEST – TOP BEARING
- After test 6 then jiggle the tiller fore and aft – on the 180 line. You must feel a little looseness – slight knocking of the top bearing. NOTE – It is highly unlikely that this problem would be found in new units.
- If you have the new PTFE (white) bearings and the unit is new it could be that the bearings have swollen with the humidity and are a bit tight on the shaft. If so, this test does not work. Once the bearings are 'broken in' the test should work.
8. RATTLE TEST – BOTTOM BEARING
- After test 6, with the rudder removed, jiggle the bottom of the shaft. You must feel a little looseness – slight knocking of the bottom bearing. NOTE – It is highly unlikely that this problem would be found in new units.
- If you have the new PTFE (white) bearings and the unit is new it could be that the bearings have swollen with the humidity and are a bit tight on the shaft. If so, this test does not work. Once the bearings are 'broken in' the test should work.
IDEA! – RETROFIT A SOLAR PANEL IN PLACE OF VANE WHEN NOT IN USE – A customer at Southampton has provided a brilliant idea. He uses the vane locking screw and bracket and has fitted a solar panel to it. The panel sits at the full deflection point which is 50 degrees off the horizontal – a perfect compromise angle.
IDEA! – RETROFIT A BASE FOR A FLAG STANDARD IN PLACE OF VANE WHEN NOT IN USE
Westerly Oceanlord 41 - ARC Finish
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Make a pocket in the lifelines using sail cover material – eg – Sunbrella or equivalent
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Using the back of a door install a bolt with dimensions that utilizes the same locking arrangement as is on the vane - use a wing-nut.
IDEA - FIX FOR ROTTING VANE COVERS - Duct tape is the standard method of keeping a vane cover together. When there is little to work with 'Saran Wrap' or clear plastic wrap for covering food can be wound around the frame as can the clear packing material - no idea how long either will last. Another interesting replacement is the fabric used in model airplanes - wrapped around and shrunk tight with the appropriate gunck.
IDEA! - TELL-TALE ON THE VANE - CASSETTE TAPES - It is handy to have a tell-tale on the windvane - top trailing edge. We have often heard that cassette tapes make ideal tell-tales. That is probably the only use for those cassettes...if you can find one.
IDEA! - ENHANCE LIGHT AIR RESPONSE WITH A PLASTIC BAG/SACK - To enhance vane response sailing downwind in light airs, attach a small plastic bag (e.g. usual grocery bag/sack) to the top of the vane so it fills with wind like a balloon. It will pivot with the wind direction, and add force to deflect the vane, while having negligible intrinsic weight. This idea was found on an obscure sailing chatline - it is generic to any self steering with a vane. As an aside - we regularly hear of Hydrovanes performing in as little as 3 knots apparent...in the right conditions: flat sea, constant wind direction. Thanks to John Hurlburt who found this and passed it on while serving in a medical facility in Nunavut, in the Canadian Arctic where it was "-41 degrees (the same for either 'F' or 'C' at -40) and blowing 30 knots" at the time of writing.... while his Roberts 44 waits patiently for him on the hard in Guaqail, Equador.
Bristol 29 (with recycled RVG brackets)
Better yet - this LED version (the stainless disk) - rated at 3NM - burns only 1.5W or 0.1amps. This looks so good we are considering including it as original equipment.
thanks to Scott Ritchie - Folkes 39
IDEA! - MINI DECK FOR 'A' BRACKET - If you have an upper 'A' bracket and configure it with the struts horizontal - then you can easily construct a little deck (see the GALLERY for pictures of the Southerly). Aside from a favourite getaway we have aslo heard it makes an ideal fish cleaning work table and also a good surf board rack. Our bias is to leave it as is - those 2 inch (50mm) tubes are such good handholds.
Southerly 135
IDEA! - COVER PLATES FOR RUDDER HANDLE HOLE - Water flow through the handle hole does cause drag and reduces the 'balance' of the rudder. This 'drag' increases with boat speed. Faster boats could improve performance by making plates that cover that hole - see picture below. Note the space left for the tether. We had intended to make plates but now discover the new rudder is so well balanced that the plates are not needed for it.
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Cover plates for handle hole made with marine plywood
6. GETTING STARTED
THE FIRST TEST DRIVE:
- MIDDLE FOR VANE - Vane set at 20 degrees and ratio knob at middle setting - The vane can be inclined from the vertical position by up to 30 degrees. To change the vane’s position loosen the vane’s axis locking knob and push the lead weights up. To start, set it at 20 degrees off the vertical – 2/3 way through its range.
- MIDDLE FOR RATIO KNOB - Try the ratio knob at the middle setting.
- You might refresh yourself with all the set-up procedures from the detailed instructions.... but many never do... Essentially:
- Sails trimmed and balanced
- Vane set with the leading edge dead into the wind
- Lock the main rudder, not centered butin that ‘sweet spot’ that holds the boat 'on course' and compensates for any tendencies of the boat – weather or lee helm. Engage the HYDROVANE by moving the ratio control from the neutral, right hand position (with the rod pointing vertical/down) to the middle setting (with the rod off to the side - pointing at 4:00 o’clock).
- Stand back and watch.
- If it is struggling:
- Increase power by moving the Ratio to the far left setting.
- Increase responsiveness by moving the Vane to vertical
- Typically you should now be marvelling that it really does work. Let it perform for a while. Observe the wake. The goal is to achieve a straight or straighter wake – and reduce the yaw......well, many do not bother as it should be steering just fine... even without tuning.
STRAIGHTENING THE WAKE AND REDUCING YAW – There are two tools for adjusting the sensitivity and steerage of the HYDROVANE:
1. ADJUSTABLE VANE AXIS (SENSITIVITY) - The inclination of the vane - 0 to 30 degrees for sensitivity:
- Light Airs - 0 degrees or vertical - most power -most sensitive
- Middle or Normal Setting - 15 to 20 degrees
- Heavy Weather - 30 degrees or fully inclined -least sensitive
Vane Angle Settings - If the Hydrovane is responding too slowly, under steering, then finally catching up by over steering, try raising the vane – make it more responsive/sensitive/powerful by putting it in the vertical position. Conversely, if the vessel is over steering with each correction being too dramatic, then de-sensitize/de-power the vane by further inclining it. The vane should have an easy waving motion - not stuck without moving nor banging from side to side - something in between.
2. RATIO CONTROL (STEERAGE) - 3 settings for different amounts of power and rudder angle:
- Far left - 15 degrees (1:3 power) – most power, the default setting for faster boats
- Middle -25 degrees (1:2 power) - normal setting for medium (35' to 40') sized boats
- Right – 40 degrees (1:1 power) - least power, most steerage, not used that much
- Neutral – far right
Middle & Middle - Many find that the basic settings previously suggested – vane partially inclined (about 15 -20 degrees) and ratio knob in the middle setting - are all that they need. Bigger or faster boats will probably need the far left setting.
Ratio Control Settings - Typically the trade-off is between the far left setting and the one next to it. If, at the middle setting, the boat is being over steered - evident in the wake as the boat meanders too far from the desired course then switch to the far left setting. The middle setting is the most commonly used although bigger boats at faster speeds will need the 3:1 far left setting.
Examples - In light airs, when the vane may be vertical for maximum power, the ratio might also need maximum power - the left setting. In heavy weather, when the vane axis will be fully declined for stability; the ratio knob would often be in the middle setting if the boat has reduced canvass and under control but if 'going like the clappers' - you will need the power of the left setting.
Easy Waving Motion of Vane -The end result should be a an easy waving motion of the vane as it swings from side to side - not moving that much - rarely banging at the stop and not spending long periods without moving. If it bangs from side to side it needs to be de-sensitized - lower it. If it is not moving much then add sensitivity by raising it.
You should soon learn what positioning works for you. Over time you will develop your own technique for altering the settings. Surprisingly, many users are happy to leave the settings alone - seeing no need.
ONLY HYDROVANE CAN CHANGE ITS AXIS/SENSITIVITY - The HYDROVANE is not finicky. As just mentioned, many owners leave their vane and ratio knob at the same setting for most conditions. The degree of tuning is a personal taste. All the other major brands have either no such tuning capability or at best can make only minor adjustments. Some can change the angle of their vanes but none can change the axis angle. All other brands have fixed axis – generally 20 degrees. Only Hydrovane can change that axis angle – hence change the vane’s sensitivity/power.
A HYDROVANE should perform beautifully on any boat that sails well, easily holding its course. Its control diminishes for heavier boats, especially at higher speeds and for boats with balance (weather helm) problems. If your boat is easy to helm, it will also be easy for the self steering system.
All performance issues we have seen can be summarized as:
- Faulty installation – Soon solved by re-aligning direction of Tiller and Rudder.
- Sail trim – over 95% of the time a better understanding of ‘balancing’ the sails solves the problem
- 'Dirty air' – a subtle problem - identified when performance improves as obstructions are removed
- 'Dirty water' – Not common - have seen 3 instances of monohulls and 2 of multihulls
CHECKLIST FOR THOSE FIRST TIMERS AT SEA WITH PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS - The following is the checklist for those that are at sea and find the Hydrovane is not performing as it should. (Typically, the Hydrovane is hardly tested before going to sea). Starting with the obvious:
- IS IT ON STRAIGHT? TILLER IN LINE WITH RUDDER?
- Insert Vane Lock Pin #60
- Insert Shaft Lock Pin #61
- Set ratio control to the far left setting - puts the Ratio Rod pointing downwards at 45 degrees to the right
- The Ratio Rod #35 should fit between the two Drive Rods #36 without touching – move the Ratio Knob #21 back and forth – from Neutral on the right to the 3:1 setting on the left – should move freely without touching.
- Check that the Drive Sleeve #19 spins freely and does not bind on either of the Drive Rods #36.
- DRIVE UNIT ON SQUARE - The tiller must be on a true 180 degree setting parallel to the centreline of the boat. If it is off, it is like trying to walk while you are leaning 5 degrees to starboard. With the rudder locking pin #61 inserted, try sticking a ¾” (12mm) dowel or rod into the hole in the tiller or a tube over it - 1 ½” (38mm) ID tube. The purpose is to make it visually more obvious if the tiller is on a true 180 degree setting parallel to the centreline of the boat.
- BOTTOM COLLAR TOUCHING BOTTOM BEARING – A most common problem caused by banging the bottom collar when installing the rudder. The test to see if this is the case is harder to do at sea – but you should be able to tell. Put the ratio into neutral and use the tiller to feel if there is any binding of the bottom bearing onto that bottom collar (the piece of black plastic between the rudder and bottom bearing – should always be a sliver of airspace between the two) - by gently moving the tiller back and forth can you sense/feel some binding?
- WINDAGE - 'DIRTY AIR' – Is the vane getting enough wind to push it over when the boat goes off course? Do you have a bimini and other aerial obstructions on the aft end of the boat? Although the vane appears to have a straight path for the wind big aft enclosures can create a buffer forcing the wind higher to get over it all leaving the vane in a back eddy. This can occur on certain reaching conditions with less apparent wind and good boat speed.
- BOAT SPEED – How fast are you going? 10 knots plus? The loads are exponential as boat speed increases. We can expand on this and offer solutions – but none that help when at sea – other than to always use the far left ratio setting and vane vertical – for the most power. Solutions/Improvements:
- A new better balanced rudder - If your unit is pre summer of 2009 you could upgrade your rudder. The new version has both:
- Improved balance - takes little effort to move/control
- Significantly more power - much thicker - higher lift coefficient
- Covering plates for the rudder handle hole (reduce drag - a modest improvement in rudder balance)
- Shorten the rudder – cut 5 inches or 125mm of the bottom of the rudder. Fast boats do not need so much rudder.
- SAIL TRIM – Take the wheel when the Hydrovane is struggling to feel what it feels. If hard to steer get to work on sail trim – try variations of less sail, pay out some sheets, stabilize headsail with a pole.
- MAIN RUDDER NOT LOCKED IN THE RIGHT POSITION - needs re-setting - experiment - find that 'on course' 'sweet spot' before locking it - typically never locked on the centre line. The positioning of the main rudder’s locked spot is critical to Hydrovane’s performance.
- DOES THE VANE GO OVER ONCE OFF COURSE? – That is all the Hydrovane can do. If the boat does not correct then there is a sail balance issue – all you can do is work with sail trim or re-set the position the main rudder is locked in... or see next item ...
- VANE NOT GOING OVER WHEN OFF COURSE
- Is the vane getting clear air?
- Is there a big cockpit enclosure?
- Is the boat going over 8 knots in light winds - can only happen on lightweight performance boats - good boat speed but little apparent wind on the Hydrovane vane - not enough wind pressure to force the vane over
- If your unit is pre summer of 2009 you could upgrade your rudder. The new version has both:
- Improved balance - takes little effort to move/control
- Significantly more power - much thicker - higher lift coefficient
- SECURE THE HEADSAIL - MUST HAVE A POLE - If the headsail is collapsing and filling or dishing back and forth (unpoled spinnaker) the 'balance' of the boat is in constant flux - out of balance - unworkable for self steering..... and challenging for a helmsman. A pole is a must for both a spinnaker and to secure the clue of a jib when 'wing on wing' or even when the jib is to leeward if the headsail is collapsing in the trough of waves.
- OFF CENTER INSTALLATIONS & DIRTY WATER - If the Hydrovane rudder is in water flow that is not normal - distorted direction - its performance will be affected. We have only heard of this in two instances - both on fast fifty footers. When under way put a paddle in the water at the transom to identify the water flow direction. If the flow is distorted - other than perfectly fore and aft or parallel to the centre line - the only solution is to relocate the Hydrovane amidships.
MORE DISCUSSIONS ON PERFORMANCE ISSUES
CORRUPTED BY YOUR AUTOPILOT?
It is easy to become too complacent with your autopilot – the devil you know. You might be surprised to discover that the Hydrovane will steer a better course than the autopilot: faster, quieter , more comfortable boat motion and less need to charge batteries – all good reasons to focus on getting it working properly.
THE WIND DOES NOT FOLLOW A MAGNETIC COURSE - When sailing, autopilots steering on a magnetic course are unable to steer a good course to the wind (unless they steer to a wind sensor). The wind never blows from a constant direction. It is always meandering by at least ten degrees. A mechanical self steering system can only do the opposite: hug the wind. Whereas an autopilot is clueless about what the wind is doing. A boat cannot sail properly when directed by a magnetic course.
A TRUE STORY: (told to us by George Day, editor of Bluewater sailing magazine) Three boats together set off from Fiji on a trip to New Zealand – a 35’, 45’ and 50+’. The two smaller boats had self steering and the big boat had only an autopilot. The wind was always forward of the beam and strong enough. The two smaller boats beat the big boat to NZ by days in spite of the big boat being much faster. The reason being that as the wind meandered in direction from time to time the big boat’s sails would luff which, in good winds is annoying – sails banging, boat slows or stops - meant falling off course further to ensure the sails stay full – resulting in inefficient sail trim and heading even further away from the targeted destination – resulting in slower boat speed and a much longer course. In the meantime the smaller boats sailing with self steering can lock into sailing at the precise angle to the wind – means the sails are always well trimmed for the conditions which optimizes boat speed and ‘course made good’.
SAILING TO THE WIND AND STEERED BY THE WIND results in all elements: the boat, wind and sea being in sync with each other. If the boat is not handling it well the solution is in the sail trim. Once properly trimmed out the boat should happily hold course with a consistent natural motion. With the boat trimmed and ‘balanced out’ it will perform better and the crew will feel better with the more regular and natural motion ……. and less annoying noise of autopilots and engines charging batteries.
THE SELF STEERING IS THE TEACHER – If the Hydrovane is struggling to hold the course, disengage it and take the wheel – feel what the Hydrovane must feel. Lock the wheel in that ‘on course’ position and see what the boat wants to do. It should be holding course, not immediately heading off in another direction. Try easing off some sheets to see the affect - then take the wheel again. Use all the sail trim techniques: reefs, poles, vangs and sheeting to get the sails stable with a uniform angle to the wind and the boat comfortably holding course. Incidentally, all of this should be done for the autopilot as well – too bad we cannot hear it screaming as it struggles to hold course.
THE CAT’S MEOW - So often we hear reports from sailors who have been sailing for years using only their autopilots until one day their autopilot fails or for other reasons the batteries are dead. In desperation they then turn to the self steering to first see how it works and eventually, having no other options discover that it is the ‘cat’s meow’.....
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UNTRIMMED SAILS – sheeted too hard, unbalanced configuration or over-canvassed - difficult for helmsman as well - first hand steer to see if the boat is tracking well - if not, adjust sheeting or change/reef sails. The Hydrovane is the teacher - it is happiest when you have done a good job of sail trim and balance. The sails must be trimmed so that the boat wants to go in the same direction as the desired course. If the boat wants to go elsewhere that makes it hard for autopilot, human helmsman and Hydrovane.
A big lesson can be learned from the long distance single-handed racers. They focus all their efforts on the 'trim' of the sails to the extent that their wheels are so light to the touch and their self steering has relatively little loads to deal with. Surprisingly, they are much more concerned about being over-canvassed than you think. A good test is to see if you can alter the course of the boat by only adjusting the sails. Once you have achieved that you know you have figured out how to trim your sails.
BAGGY SAILS - old sails are harder to trim
AERIAL OBSTRUCTIONS - Nearby aerial equipment above deck level, like biminis, arches with solar panels, etc. will cause an air buffer resulting in some of the wind going up and over it all - slowing the speed and mass of the wind at lower levels - just as the waves do. The conclusion is that, if there are such nearby impediments to the natural flow of air, the vane should be as high as possible to seek the stronger winds that are higher. The degree of difference in performance might or might not be much to be concerned about - all dependent on those variables: wind strength, wind direction, wave height and mass and proximity of aerial obstructions.
OFF CENTRE INSTALLATIONS - BIG, FAST, LIGHT BOATS - Only relatively light and fast boats that are bigger (about 50 feet or 15 m. that readily achieve speeds of 10 knots or more) might suffer from 'hull form stability' issues - causing the water flow, at the Hydrovane rudder to be other than the true fore and aft 180 degree direction. Such pressure on the Hydrovane rudder impedes performance. The solution is an amidships installation.
WEATHER HELM OR LEE HELM? - In conditions that overwhelm the Hydrovane, disengage it and take the wheel yourself – feel what the Hydrovane must deal with.
The auxiliary rudder concept makes the Hydrovane’s job easier because the main rudder should be set to ‘balance out the boat’. With a truly balanced boat the Hydrovane’s power, leverage and nimbleness should be enough to get the boat back on course. This concept is corrupted if the Hydrovane must steer a boat that wants to go in a direction other than the desired course.
SEVERE WEATHER HELM - RE-SETTING THE MAIN RUDDER - A TEMPORARY FIX - If the Hydrovane rudder is hard over and the boat is not responding that means the boat is trying very badly to go in another direction. If you have some speed through the water the nearly 3 sq. ft. of Hydrovane's rudder is providing lots of power to turn your boat. You must have even more power heading in opposition. You need to solve where that opposition is coming from. Does re-setting of the main rudder help? As the wind gains strength do you have to keep re-setting the main rudder? Can you tell how far off centre the main rudder is positioned? It will be compensating for any weather helm. For boats with severe weather helm as the wind gains in strength so does the weather helm. Re-positioning of the rudder is a temporary fix. The permanent fix is probably in the positioning of the main mast or hopefully in cheaper solutions like the rake of the mast, size of sails, reduce length of boom and main sail! Take a good sail maker for a sea trail.
In changing or gusty conditions the dynamics that the Hydrovane is relying on could need constant adjusting. This is especially so for boats with bad weather helm or a headsail that folds in rolly seas. As the wind gains strength a number of things happen:
- Typically boats gain more weather helm resulting from increased pressure on a portion of one of the sails – roach of the main could be a culprit
- Boat speed changes which in turn changes apparent wind direction
- Heel of the boat might change – lesser affect but contributes to the changing dynamics
- The result is that the ‘balance’ of the boat has altered and the Hydrovane is fighting a boat that wants to go ‘off course’. The solution is to re-set the locked position of the main rudder. The dilemma is that no sooner than the correction has been made than the wind calms – reversing the affect meaning another re-setting of the main rudder position…and on and on….
IMPORTANT - STOP HEADSAIL FROM COLLAPSING OR FOLDING - POLE AND VANG - A pole is a must – keeps the jib from folding. The ‘wing-on-wing’ for downwind sailing is nearly bullet proof – stability is created by both the slot between the two sails and the rigid position of each sail – jib sheeted hard to windward on the pole and main secured to leeward with a preventer or vang. The use of a pole will solve beam reaching problems as well – again the folding jib is the issue. If the jib folds the whole balance of the boat changes as the main takes over, driving the boat upwind and the jib is not there to push the bow down. You will be amazed how peaceful the boat becomes without the jib collapsing and re-filling with that horrible bang.
GENOA – Is your headsail a genoa? – a big jib with a long low cut foot with a clue near deck level. Those genoas are designed for racing – an upwind sail – not at all versatile for the needs of a cruiser. Slacking sheets on a genoa creates a loose bag at the top while the foot is still fairly flat – very inefficient – as it should be as it is not designed for reaching. I always take those genoas to my sailmaker and have them create a new clew that effectively makes the sail nearly an isosceles triangle (leach and foot are nearly of equal length). As its sheet is slacked off the sail evenly changes its shape. Coincidentally a ‘140’ genoa becomes about a ‘110’ yankee type jib – an ideal sail for cruisers. Another big bonus of this re-cut of the sail is that then you can see under it – so much safer. Sheeting of this new sail is easy too – with the sail set, sight a line from the clue to the mid point on the forestay (half way up the sail) then extend that notional line straight aft to your track – voila, that is where the block should be.
HEAVY WEATHER – The Hydrovane will outperform any human or autopilot in heavy weather. With the vane fully inclined to de-sensitize it and the ratio control setting at the left-hand position( or the middle setting - but not the right hand setting if going fast - chance of rudder stalling) to minimize the yaw. With less yaw the vessel will be more comfortable (HOW CAN BAD WEATHER BE CALLED COMFORTABLE?) and travel a shorter route for a faster passage. The main rudder can provide the greatest yaw resistance only if it is fixed - meaning the Hydrovane system has a 'natural stability' in heavy weather. The Hydrovane’s rudder, in its more levered position further aft, responds almost instantaneously to course changes. It is not as big as the main rudder but it is faster and smarter.
LIGHT AIRS – Hydrovane’s superiority in light airs is because it can be set in a ‘light air mode’ and there is so little inherent friction. No other system can match these capabilities. The ‘light air mode’ - the vane set in the vertical position for maximum power and responsiveness and the rudder perhaps in the most powerful setting (far left) the Hydrovane should perform in apparent winds of 3 to 6 knots – depending on the sea state (a rolly sea can throw the vane off course). For the purists or those without enough fuel the next step would be to have a small tiller style autopilot fitted onto the Hydrovane tiller for the lightest of airs.
OFF THE WIND - Sailing off the wind in lumpy seas is precarious sailing – the toughest for any steering system. Sail trim is critical. Simply engaging the Hydrovane does not assure the boat will hold its course. The secret to trim in downwind sailing is in securing or stabilizing the sails. If the sails are able to flop about there is no hope of balancing the boat…..and any self steering system, needs a balanced boat to work with.
CONCLUSION - Hydrovane owners marvel that their Hydrovane’s performance is superior to any helmsman or even their autopilot – in the worst and lightest of conditions. There is no reason why the HYDROVANE should not be used 100% of the time when sailing. Racers report that when going upwind their boats can go closer to the wind with a Hydrovane than by human or autopilot. It is not unreasonable to extrapolate that conclusion to other points of sail - just harder to prove.
We so often hear from Hydrovane owners that they learned so much about sailing their boats from their Hydrovane. The Hydrovane is giving its certain amount of steering power to make corrections. If the boat it is working with is not balanced then as the wind gains strength it will have a tougher and tougher time. You must deliver to the Hydrovane a 'balanced' boat.
The owner of an Oyster 55 that weighs 25 tons told me that it took him some time to get 'in tune' with the Hydrovane. Eventually he found himself using it much of the time. I can tell you of other over weight boats that are happy enough with their Hydrovanes. You have to learn about your sails and trim. The Hydrovane is the instructor. The suspects for your problem are:
- Sail trim
- Position that you lock your main rudder
RALLY PARTICIPANTS
STEERS STRAIGHTER COURSE - 1) Sophisticated ability to adjust for sensitivity and power produces a straighter course for less distance traveled. 2) The direction of the wind is constantly varying by at least 10 degrees. Mechanical systems naturally exploit those wind shifts. Electronic systems steering a magnetic course are more often out of trim than in trim. And as the wind shifts direction mechanical self steering devices alertly detect each change - whereas our human watch-keepers are not always so interested or willing or available to make adjustments.
INSURANCE (PHSYCHOLOGICAL)- Owners are not always able to stay with the boat for the return trip and the delivery crew is typically more prone to have mechanical difficulties. A Hydrovane is perfect insurance against much of the unforeseen.
INSURANCE FOR LOSS OF BOAT - Some insurers, shall we say the more knowledgable ones, acknowledge the added reliability and survivability of your vessel with a Hydrovane - offering either a reduced premium or providing insurance for a boat with short handed crew that would otherwise be precluded from insurability.
IDEAL FOR CRUISING POST RACE/RALLY - All the above features are compelling for the short handed cruisers.
MOTOR SAILORS
Typically it is the bottom bearing and drive sleeve need replacing – see INSTRUCTIONS #12 and #14.
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Bathe in Penetrating Oil - Frequent spraying or, better yet, immersion over a period of time. Far better than WD40 is Alumiprep No. 33 from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co. - http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/alumiprep.php - in California but they ship worlwide - only $32 for a gallon.
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Boil it - Yes, like vegetables. The heating and contraction of the differing metals can cause a separation. Using more aggressive heating methods are very risky as aluminum is most vulnerable to high heat temperatures.
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Impact Tools - Machinists use special 'impact tools' that twist a screw or bolt just a fraction on impact.
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Skilled Machinists - We have yet to see a unit that we could not take apart. Before damaging it you might consider taking the unit to a qualified machine shop where they have the proper tools and savoir faire.
For re-assembly:
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Loctite 'green' - use Loctite or equivalent when re-setting the screws.
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Corrosion Inhibitor - The castings, especially the brackets that are nearer salt water, should be sprayed with a corrosion inhibitor to protect against electrolysis. Some are:
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Lanocote - www.forespar.com - used on all bore holes during assembly
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Corrosion X - http://www.corrosionxproducts.com/corrosionxpage.htm
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T-9 – BOESHIELD – www.boeshield.com
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LPS3 - www.lpslabs.com
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