INSTRUCTIONS

 VXA2 - Remote Course Setting - worm gear

 VXA1 - Integral Course Setting - basic clamp

INSTALLATION OF NEW UNITS

1.

 Assembly Of Drive Unit & Shaft

2.

 H Bracket

3.

 E Bracket

4.

 A Bracket

5.

 Remote Course Setting

6.

 Fitting The Vane Cover

7.

 Safety

8.

 Maintenance

OPERATION

9.

 Motoring & Going Astern

10.

 Under Sail

11.

 Variable Ratio Control & Adjustable Vane Axis Angle

MISCELLANEOUS REPAIRS OR MAINTENANCE

12.

 Bearings - Replace Rudder Shaft Bearings

13.

 Ball Sockets - Change

14.

 Drive Sleeve - Change

15.

 Vane Axis Disc and/or Bobbin - Change

16.

 Ratio Arm 70 - Change

17.

 Assembly Of Drive Unit Onto Rudder Shaft - when the shaft is already fitted to the boat

18.

 Shortening Rudder Shaft Assembly

19.

 Conversion of VXA1 (Clamp Course Setting) To VXA2 (Remote Course Setting)

20.

 Installation - Course Control Winch - older model

 _

Single strut 'E' Bracket

 _

Double strut 'A' Bracket

 1.

ASSEMBLY OF DRIVE UNIT & SHAFT

OVERVIEW

A new HYDROVANE is typically shipped in five boxes - each segment fully assembled: 1) drive unit 2) rudder and vane 3) shaft 4) 'H' bracket 5) 'E' or 'A' bracket.

 

INSTALL EITHER IN OR OUT OF THE WATER - It might be better to do the installation with the boat in the water because the vertical positioning of the shaft is evident as is the waterline. If done in the water the installer does need reminding to keep lines on everything - the pieces are slippery, heavy and valuable. Use strong tape and good knots.

CHECK THAT SHAFT SPINS FREELY - Holding the shaft assembly in the air by the outer tube, spin the shaft. It should rotate freely. Once the shaft assembly is installed, again do this test to see that the shaft is not binding. Check that the plastic (black Delrin or newer white PTFE bearings) are flush with the stainless tube - often knocked loose in shipping - if so see the TIPS section #1. WARNING - SHAFT ASSEMBLY OFTEN KNOCKED LOOSE IN SHIPPING.


REGARDING THE 2 BRACKETS THAT HOLD THE SHAFT IN PLACE:

• NOT PROVIDED - TIMBER PADS, BOLTS, BACKING PLATES - We do not provide 'timber pads' nor the 4 or 6 bolts to hold the brackets on nor 'backing plates' – as the requirements are entirely unique from boat to boat – must be dealt with onsite on a ‘custom’ basis.
  
  
• TIMBER PADS - See more on this topic in the TIPS section - Not provided with unit - must be custom fabricated by customer - Timber pads (or spacers) are pieces of teak or marine plywood or suitable synthetic that are shaped in order to pick up the contour differences between the transom and the flat inside faces of the flanges. The flat flanges of the brackets must be perfectly flush with the contact surface - or the brittle aluminium casting could fracture. Even if the fibreglass transom appears to be flat at that point it is wise to make a Timber Pad/Spacer - to be sure the load is equally distributed. Alternatively, if there might be any flex in the fibreglass a strong stainless steel single piece backing plate would help. It is critical that the brackets cannot 'work' - they must be absolutely rigid. More helpful info on Timber Pads - see the TIPS section.
  
  
• BOLTS - Not provided with unit - Use the metric M10 or non metric 3/8" bolts (if you have a choice the metric M10 is the better of the two - a bit thicker - although we have no history of either breaking). If a particularly long bolt is required, but not available, one can be fashioned from threaded rod, using nyloc nuts on both ends and cutting off the excess. Wise to file down both ends to remove any sharp burrs.
  
  
• BACKING PLATES - Not provided with unit - The bolt head or nut on the inside of the transom must have its load distributed. Any substantial marine material can be used as a backing plate - if metal - the '316' stainless steel is best. Aluminium plate is also used as well as any of the plastics that are listed above for the Timber Pad. Marine plywood is another suitable material. At the minimum a build up of fender washers is necessary - a single washer is not enough support - especially on modern lighter weight boats built to minimum tolerances. The plate or washers must be flush with the bolt head or nut. Any cavities behind the backing plate should be filled with fibreglass or epoxy resin.

Backing plates on a Crealock 40

INSTALL THE 'H' BRACKET FIRST - THEN THE 2ND BRACKET - SEE SECTIONS 2, 3 and 4 BELOW FOR DETAILS ON THE BRACKETS

SHAFT VERTICAL - The object is to install the shaft in a vertical position (largely for cosmetic reasons - once at sea 'vertical' is a nebulous concept). Aside from 'off centre' and 'distance from the main rudder' discussions, the shaft is intended to sit with its bottom stub 1" ( 25 mm) above the water - for the practical reason: to avoid growth. That position is also very suitable for normal operation. If for other reasons it is desirable to lower or raise the shaft - that is fine - subject to the obvious considerations.

SHAFT - Once the 'H' bracket is installed the shaft should be clamped in place to help determine the positioning of the 2nd bracket. TIP - Use a 'dummy' plastic tube instead of the very heavy shaft - obtainable from any building supply store - OD 2" or 5 cm.

LOWER BRACKET - Essentially the shaft is vertical and the two brackets are holders with the bottom bracket gripping the shaft at somewhere between 10" (250 mm) and 20" (500 mm) above the waterline. Ideally the bottom bracket is as low as possible but not too close to the bottom bearing as it will cause binding - prefer a minimum of 2 inches (5 cm.) of stainless visible below the clamp

UPPER BRACKET - Preferably the upper bracket is close to the drive unit. The higher the better but leave at least 7 in. (18 cm.) of shaft and stub for the drive unit to attach to. The upper bracket should be no lower than 18" ( 460 mm) from the unit.

FELIXIBILITY IN PLACEMENT - Since the brackets do not require critical positioning you may move the placement higher or lower subject to the little surprises found on the inside of the transom and the aforementioned maximums and minimums.
 

When both brackets have been installed and the shaft clamped in position you are ready to attach the drive unit:

ATTACHING THE DRIVE UNIT

 1.

SET-UP OF DRIVE UNIT AND INSTALL RUDDER

• Remove the white plastic housing from the Drive Unit to avoid damage.
• Insert the VANE LOCK PIN - to keep the top section rigid.
• Remove the SHAFT LOCK PIN from its sleeve in the Drive Unit frame.
• Move the RATIO KNOB to the far left so that the plastic-sleeved Drive Arm points to the far right - at the 5 o'clock direction (more accurately at 4:30 or so)
• Install the Rudder on the shaft - held in place with its Locking Pin.
  
  
  

 2.

FIT MAIN FRAME ONTO SHAFT

• Test to see if the shaft fits into the bore hole of the Main Frame - do not force it - it might or might not fit without using the 'Opener'.
• OPENER - Find the 2 bolts at the base of the Drive Unit (and note the empty 'middle hole' - that is the 'opener') - that will clamp the the DRIVE UNIT onto the shaft - check that those bolts are loose.
• If the Opener is needed - Remove one of those bolts to use as an 'opener' - screw it into the middle hole until it is hard against the far wall - then tighten this bolt only one quarter of a turn (WARNING - be very careful not to tighten excessively - the casting could crack or break) at a time until the Drive Unit frame will slide easily into the Shaft Assembly.
• Hold the Drive Unit in a bear hug and slide it onto the Shaft.
• If the Drive Unit collar does not slide easily onto the Shaft Assembly, do not attempt to force it in but give the OPENER bolt another quarter turn - keep doing so - until it fits.
  
  
  

Shaft Bolts clamp the Frame onto the Shaft - Middle hole is for the 'Opener'

OPENER - Use bolt as an 'Opener' - If needed, remove one of the Shaft Bolts and screw it into the Middle Hole. When the bolt in the threaded hole touches the other side of the gap in the frame clamp, tighten this bolt only one quarter of a turn (WARNING - be very careful not to tighten excessively - the casting could crack or break) at a time until the Drive Unit frame will slide easily into the Shaft Assembly. Check again that the remaining bolt is slack.

 3.

FIT TILLER ONTO THE SHAFT & FORK HOLDING THE RATIO ROD

• As the top stub of the Shaft emerges from the frame collar (bore hole) into the open space
• Place the TILLER casting in the frame with two stainless rods (Drive Rods) holding the plastic-sleeved Ratio Rod.
• The bronze Fork Arm will fit onto the top of the shaft
  
  

Tiller & Fork Arm assembly fits onto the top of the shaft - Ratio Rod fits between Forks

 4.

POSITIONING

At this stage an extra pair of hands are helpful, but can be done solo, to achieve:

• RUDDER @ 180 DEGREES - It is helpful to have someone hold the rudder in the dead aft position - to insure the Shaft Pin hole is at the 180 degree fore and aft direction - helps in locating the Shaft Pin Hole as follows
  
  
• LOCKING PIN FITS FREELY - The shaft is in the right position when the Shaft Locking Pin can move freely into its sleeve on the front of the Drive Unit and passing through the hole in the plastic collar at the top of the Shaft Assembly.
  
  
• TIGHTEN SHAFT BOLTS - Loosen the 'opener', if used, and tighten the Shaft Bolts ... hard. Of course, if the 'opener' was used then that bolt with its washers will be re-installed in its bolt hole and tightened hard.
  
  

_

LEFT - Shaft Lock Pin Hole beneath Tiller & Fork Arm assembly

RIGHT - Top of Shaft: Top Collar (black, white is Top Bearing) - hole for Shaft Locking Pin

 5.

TIGHTEN FORK BOLT

• Shaft Lock Pin still inserted
• Check that the Rudder is in that perfect 180 degree fore and aft position - if not - loosen Shaft Bolts and try again
• Line up the Tiller so that the Drive Rod sits evenly between the Forks without touching either one.
• Tighten Fork Bolt ... hard

 6.

TESTS

• All 3 (Vane, Shaft, Rudder) Locking pins still in place
• Ratio Knob still to the far left - puts the Ratio Rod pointing over at that 5:00 o'clock position (well, more like 4:30)

1. DRIVE SLEEVE MUST SPIN FREELY - Feel the plastic Drive Sleeve on the Drive Rod sitting in the Fork - between the 2 stainless rods. You must be able to spin it freely. If not the Fork Arm Bolt must be re-set
   
   
2. EYEBALL THE LINEUP - The Tiller and Rudder must point in a direction perfectly parallel to the centreline - the 180 degree or fore and aft direction.
   
   
   • It would help if you can stick a 3/4" (19mm) dowel into the Tiller centre hole or an 1.5" (38 mm) ID pipe over the tiller to emphasize the direction the unit is facing.
   • For offset installations its positioning can be an optical illusion - appear straight but actually crooked - best check it from all angles.
     
     
3. WINDVANE & BALANCE WEIGHT HAVE FREE AIRSPACE
   
   
   • Bolt on the Balance Weights
   • Clamp on the Windvane
   • Using the Remote Course Setting Line - Rotate the vane through the full 360 degrees. At any point where the vane or weights are near potential obstructions fully deflect and incline the vane to see if the vane or weights touch anything.
     
     
     

2.

HINGED 'H' BRACKET

In lower position, plastic (Delrin/Acetal) Timber Pad

 7.

Mark out the centerline of the transom or a line parallel to the centerline for off-center mounting.

 8.

'H' BRACKET FIRST - Always fit the hinged H bracket first. Use the bracket as a template to mark the position of the two 3/8 in. (10mm) clearance holes for the mounting bolts.

• TRADITIONAL - If the transom is vertical or slopes forward from the deck, the bracket is fitted close to the deck line or on the deck.
• REVERSE & SCOOP/PLATFORMS - If the transom slopes aft from the deck the H bracket is fitted as low as possible on the transom or on the counter underneath, but within the limits shown.
• TIMBER PAD - Make a timber pad to fit between the bracket and the hull to accommodate curvature or to give extra distance off if required.

 9.

BOLT - Bolt the H bracket securely to the hull using a sealing compound and 3/8 in. (10mm) diameter stainless steel bolts with a backing plate inside the hull of about the same dimensions as the bracket flange.

BACKING PLATES - Depending on the thickness of the hull, 1/8 in. (3mm) stainless steel plate or ¾ in. (20mm) plywood or synthetic is normally suitable for the backing plate. It is advisable, particularly on a fibreglass hull, to bed the backing plate on a suitable setting compound to spread the load evenly.

CHECK POSITIONING - Before tightening the hull bolts fit the shaft assembly into the bracket with bolts (A) and (B) tightened only sufficiently to hold the shaft vertical to ensure the correct location of the bracket flange.

_

Bolt Tightening Sequence: A - B

 10.

• PLASTIC SLEEVE - When the hull bolts are secure, check that the shaft assembly is positioned correctly as shown and that the plastic sleeve is properly fitted between bracket and shaft tube.
• INSERT SHAFT LOCK PIN - Insert the shaft lock pin in the drive unit and fit the rudder to check that it lies fore and aft.
• BOLT TIGHTENING SEQUENCE - Support the unit so that bolt (B) may be slackened off and the forward bolt (A) tightened hard. Finally tighten bolt (B) hard.
• Remove the rudder
  

 11.

'H/H' BRACKETS - On H/H installations the second H bracket is fitted as in step 3 to give maximum bracket spacing within the limits shown. If the transom is raked the second H bracket will require a thicker pad to keep the shaft vertical. When the installation is complete, RECHECK THE TIGHTNESS OF ALL BOLTS.

_

Bolt Tightening Sequence: 1st A - then B

3.

SINGLE STRUT 'E'  BRACKET

_

Left - in lower position ..... Right - in upper position

 12.

GETTING READY - The E is a bit harder to deal with - the only bracket without a hinge - meaning the angles are fixed and must be accommodated by using a Timber Pad.

1. FIXED ANGLES - Each of the castings at either end of the Strut (Stay Tube) hold the tube at an angle of 15 degrees. The result, depending on the direction the castings are positioned is to create aggregate angles of either 30 (15 + 15) degrees or zero (15 minus 15) degrees.
   
   
2. TIMBER PAD - In every case a Timber Pad will be needed to accommodate:
   • Difference in angles
   • Contour of hull
     
     
3. SHAFT 'DUMMY' 2 INCH (5 CM.) OD PLASTIC TUBE - Hopefully you can find a lightweight plastic tube to act as a 'dummy' for the shaft - the actual shaft is much too heavy for playing around with. Hold the dummy/shaft vertical and experiment with different positioning options for the brackets.
   
   
4. FLAT FLANGE ON TRANSOM - Start with the flat flange as close to flush with the transom as possible - always a difference in angle to accommodate - ideally the bolts would be perpendicular to the transom - means the bolt heads on the inside will sit naturally flush to the 'backing plate'. But this is rarely the case - almost always an angle to compensate for. The Timber Pad must pick up the difference in angle on the outside. Similarily, on the inside behind the backing plate, some fibreglass or epoxy resin must fill the gap between the hull and the backing plate - result must be that the backing plate fits flush, not cock-eyed, to the bolt head or nut. If the backing plate puts uneven pressure on the bolt head or nut the risk is that the bolt could bend and break at that point.
   
   
5. CUT 'DUMMY' STRUT TO LENGTH - Using the same plastic tube cut the estimated length of the strut and test it.
   
   
6. DETERMINE LENGTH OF STRUT - Establish the distance 'L' from the transom to the shaft. The Strut lenght:
   • 'L' less 2 in. (50mm)
   • Less an allowance for the thickness of a timber pad to fit between the bracket and the transom.
     
     
7. CHECK INSIDE OF THE TRANSOM - Check on the inside of the transom to be sure there are no obstructions for the bolts and backing plate(s) - can use two separate backing plates. The bolt holes are 7 in. (178mm) apart.
   
   
8. CUT STRUT - Cut the Stay Tube/Strut to length with a fine-toothed hacksaw.
   
   
   

 13.

1. SHAFT CLAMP - Assemble the shaft clamp around the stay tube and shaft tube, with the plastic sleeve in place, and tighten the bolts only sufficiently to hold the shaft clamp in its planned position. The stay tube should be touching the plastic sleeve.
   
   
2. TRANSOM CLAMP - Assemble the transom clamp around the stay tube with the tube fully into the clamp.
   
   
3. TIGHTEN BOLTS - Tighten the bolts hard to leave an even gap between the castings with the holes for the mounting bolts at the same level.
   
   
   

 14.

BOLT TIGHTENING SEQUENCE - The most common mistake, typically made by skilled tradesman that do not look at instructions, is to NOT properly tighten the bolts that clamp the castings onto the tube. All 4 (2 on each) (A) bolts must be tightened first. Check that the tightening is even - the gaps in the castings are even. Only when all (A) bolts are tightened should the (B) bolt then be tightened.

_

Bolt Tightening Sequence: all (A)s first - then the (B)

 15.

BOLT TO TRANSOM

1. DRILL HOLES - Drill the two 3/8 in. (10mm) diameter holes through the transom and Timber Pad using the bracket as a template.
   
   
2. BOLT - Bolt the E bracket, on its Timber Pad, securely to the hull using:
• 3/8 in. (10mm) diameter stainless steel bolts
• Sealing compound
• Backing plate inside the hull of about the same dimensions as the bracket flange.
  
  
3. BACKING PLATES - Depending on the thickness of the hull, 1/8 in. (3mm) stainless steel plate or ¾ in. (20mm) plywood or synthetic is normally suitable for the backing plate. It is advisable, particularly on a fibreglass hull, to bed the backing plate on a suitable setting compound to spread the load evenly.
   
   
4. RETIGHTEN BOLTS - Retighten the forward bolts (A) of the shaft clamp first to leave an even gap between the castings. Finally tighten the aft bolt (B). All bolts must be tightened hard and it is essential that they be tightened in the correct sequence. When the installation is complete RECHECK THE TIGHTNESS OF ALL BOLTS.
   
   
   

4.

DOUBLE STRUT 'A' BRACKET

_

Left - Upper position, one strut angled down ... Right - Lower position

 16.

BACKGROUND - Our biggest, strongest and most versatile bracket. The 'A' Bracket solves most difficult installation issues:

• Its flexibility:
  • Arms swing up or down vertically - but fixed at 40 degree separation
  • Transom attachment flanges fully rotate to become flush with any surface.
• Strength:
  • Big - It weighs 32 lbs. (14.5 kgs.)
  • 7 castings
  • 2 struts/tubes of 14 gauge seamless 316 stainless steel
  • Engineers love triangles
• Struts/tubes can be cut to any length
  
  

GETTING READY

1. SHAFT 'DUMMY' 2 INCH (5 CM.) OD PLASTIC TUBE FOR SHAFT - Hopefully you can find a lightweight plastic tube to act as a 'dummy' for the shaft - the actual shaft is much too heavy for playing around with. Hold the dummy/shaft vertical and experiment with different positioning options for the brackets.
   
   
2. PLASTIC 'DUMMY' FOR STRUT TUBES - The Strut tubes have the same OD (outside diameter) of 2 inches or 5 cm. It is helpful to first use the plastic to get the right length before making the final cuts in the stainless tubes
   
   
3. SHAFT & 'H' BRACKET IN POSITION - Fix the shaft or 'dummy' shaft in the 'H' Bracket.
   
   

 17.

INSTALL SECTION ONTO SHAFT - Slide the shaft clamp casting onto the shaft tube (see comments below about the 'Opener'):

• FAR FROM THE 'H' - Try to maximize the distance from the 'H' bracket ... but:
  
  
  • CLEAR OF BOTTOM BEARING - If it is the bottom bracket - keep clear of the bottom bearing - recommend 2 in./5 cm. of stainless showing above the bottom
  • LEAVE ROOM FOR DRIVE UNIT - If it is the top bracket - leave 7 inches (18 cm.) of shaft for the Drive Unit to sit on.
  • FOR VERY LONG SHAFTS - If the drive unit is particularly high - means the shaft is an X+? - the bracket should be within 25 inches (65 cm.) of the top - but preferably closer.
    
    
• TIGHTEN ONTO SHAFT - Tighten bolt (C) lightly to hold it temporarily in place.
  
  
• OPENER - If the shaft clamp does not slide easily onto the rudder tube, remove bolt (C) and screw it into the adjacent, threaded hole - see discussion about the OPENER in the first section on Assembly of the Drive Unit. Note there are total of 5 of such 'Opener' holes on the 'A' Bracket - each to open the casting to get it onto the Shaft tube or Strut tubes.
  
  
  

 18.

CUT TUBES TO LENGTH - Estimate the required length of the stay tubes. First experiment by cutting plastic tubes - if you have such. Then cut the stainless steel tubes to the estimated length using a fine-toothed hacksaw and assemble the complete bracket by bolting it lightly together. Note that each of the 4 castings that fit onto the tubes has a threaded hole for use as an 'Opener' - see explanation above.

 19.

1. POSITION ARMS - Swing the two arms up and rotate the mounting flanges to lay flush with the hull. Using the flanges as templates, drill the 3/8 in. (10mm) clearance holes through the hull. A timber pad may be required to accommodate hull curvature beneath the flanges.
   
   
2. BOLT - Bolt each A Bracket flange, on its Timber Pad (if necessary), securely to the hull using:
   1. 3/8 in. (10mm) diameter stainless steel bolts
   2. Sealing compound
   3. Backing plate inside the hull of about the same dimensions as the bracket flange.
      
      
3. BACKING PLATES - Depending on the thickness of the hull, 1/8 in. (3mm) stainless steel plate or ¾ in. (20mm) plywood or synthetic is normally suitable for the backing plate. It is advisable, particularly on a fibreglass hull, to bed the backing plate on a suitable setting compound to spread the load evenly.

_

Bolt Tightening Sequence: 1st A - then B - then C

 20.

1. CHECK ALIGNMENT - Check the alignment and location of the bracket and the overall position of the unit.
   
   
2. BOLT TIGHTENING SEQUENCE - Tighten all bolts in the bracket assembly hard in the order shown - bolts (A) first, bolts (B) second, and finally bolt (C). When the installation is complete, RECHECK THE TIGHTNESS OF ALL BOLTS.
   
   

5.

REMOTE COURSE SETTING

_

• HANDY - Set-up somewhere handy to the cockpit - can be as long as you like - any route - friction is not a problem
• LIKE A CLOTHESLINE - Make an endless loop with the line using the block provided
• USE A BUNGY CHORD to keep the line taught
• HELPFUL to keep the upper and lower portions separate - consistency of direction when pulled
  
  

SET-UP

• The remote course setting line should be led through the fairleads and around the grooved track as shown.
• The line should be led to a position that is convenient - in the lifelines or into the cockpit.
• For smooth operation the lines should pass straight through the fairleads without any appreciable change in direction.
• Double blocks can then be used to lead the lines forward around any obstruction.
• Many prefer a bit of friction in the line (actually, recommended) hence a slightly indirect route is not a difficulty and the use of blocks is not necessary.
• The final anchoring for the line is made using the block and a bungy chord.

ADJUST DIRECTION OF COURSE SETTING LINE - (NOTE - Not at all necessary) If it is more convenient to have the lines leaving the unit at an angle to one side, the casting below the worm wheel can be rotated. The casting has been set to hold the head of the unit with a small but noticeable vertical clearance - necessary to ensure smooth operation. BEFORE ADJUSTING THE POSITION OF THE CASTING, NOTE THIS VERTICAL CLEARANCE.

1. LOOSEN NUT - To rotate the worm wheel casting - Slacken the nut at the front of the casting, immediately below the worm wheel
2. ROTATE the casting until the fairleads point in the desired direction.
3. POSITION - Push the casting upwards as far as it will go and then move it downward a little to ESTABLISH THE ORIGINAL VERTICAL CLEARANCE.
   
   

TENSION LINE WITH BUNGY CHORD - The tension in the shock cord is adjusted so that the line will not slip on the worm wheel pulley. The amount of friction in the line is not an issue - in fact many bend it around stanchions etc.

ENDLESS LOOP - It is intended that the course setting line be made up into a continuous loop. The easiest way to accomplish an endless loop is to use a chord with a straight core and braided cover (sailmaker's 'leech line'). This type of line is easily heat welded.

HEAT WELDING

1. CLEAN CUT - Cut the line to length leaving both rope ends reasonably clean - not very frayed.
2. GAS TORCH OR LIGHTER - Using a gas flame, from a lighter or torch, simultaneously heat both ends.
3. PRESS TOGETHER & PAT JOINT SMOOOTH - When the ends become soft press them together. Any bulging can be flattened with your fingers - just lick them first to avoid burning yourself.
   
   
   

6.

FITTING THE VANE COVER

 3.

LACING - Start lacing near the casting. Push the laces through the eyelets from the inside outwards, diagonally hole to hole until the end of the lace is reached. Tie a knot across the bottom of the tube at this stage - there will be two or three pairs of holes still not laced.

 4.

SWEATING THE LACES - Starting from the curved bottom corner of the vane frame, take hold of pairs of laces, between the tube and the bottom of the cover, and pull strongly sideways so that the cover is stretched downwards. Untie the knot and lace the next pair or holes, or two if possible, and again tie off the lace. Stand the vane on its bottom casting and smooth down the edges, pushing the long tubes inwards at the same time. Ensure the cover is smoothed down over the top of the vane in particular and at the bottom of the leading edge.

 5.

BURY ENDS INSIDE - Repeat step 4 as many times as is necessary to lace up the last holes. When the cover is just above the bottom tube, and the final knot tied, there should be sufficient lace remaining to push back into the inside of the vane through the last holes on each side, to finish off the lacing.

7.

SAFETY

 1.

RE-CHECK BOLTS - Check that all the bracket and hull bolts are tight after first using the unit and at intervals afterwards.

 2.

TETHER THE RUDDER - Use a length of line, not less than 3/8 in. (10mm) diameter, tied through the rudder handle and secured loosely to some point on the stern, to ensure that the rudder is not accidentally lost. The rudder does not float.

 3.

OTHER TETHERS - All 3 locking pins have tethers although the rudder locking pin could use a tether on its tether. A tether on the vane is also not a bad idea.

 4.

ROTATE RUDDER LOCKING PIN - The Rudder Lock Pin does suffer from metal fatigue over time - best to periodically change it with spares or rotate it with the other locking pins.

8.

MAINTENANCE

SOAP & WATER & WD40 - In addition to regular washing with fresh water, at least once a year the whole of the unit including the castings should be cleaned with fresh water and detergent. When dry, the unit, again including the castings, should be thoroughly sprayed with a light aerosol oil such as WD40.

SPRAY CASTINGS WITH CORROSION INHIBITOR - The gray metal aluminum castings could use periodic spraying with a Corrosion Inhibitor - especially the brackets as they are closer to the water. Some are:

• Lanocote - www.forespar.com - used on all bore holes during assembly
• CorrosionX - www.corrosionx.com
• T-9 – BOESHIELD – www.boeshield.com
• LPS3 - www.lpslabs.com
• .... and many others – use your favourite

EVERY JOINT SHOULD RATTLE - If any of the axles, shafts or bearings are removed for cleaning or adjustment (although no reason to do such), the unit should be reassembled so that there is slight but noticeable end play between the moving parts - "every joint should rattle". The HYDROVANE is designed to 'rattle' - so, do not re-set those joints to remove the 'rattle' or 'looseness'. The purpose of the loose joints is twofold:

1)  There must be room for a delay in the transition from a course change in one direction to a course change in the opposite direction. Otherwise the system would be 'on' all the time - another type of 'over steering'.

2)  The joints need space to accommodate salt and dirt build-up. Otherwise a tight system soon becomes too tight causing unnecessary friction.

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

9.

OPERATION - MOTORING & GOING ASTERN

 1.

VANE LOCK PIN (near the vane - holds the vane vertical) inserted to hold vane vertical.

 2.

RATIO KNOB in neutral position (plastic-sleeved drive arm vertical).

 3.

SHAFT LOCK PIN (below the Tiller) inserted to fix rudder central. On some yachts the water flow from the propeller (prop wash) may create bias on the helm. This is overcome by removing the RUDDER LOCK pin and securing the Hydrovane TILLER to one side.

It is preferable to remove the auxiliary rudder if motoring for long periods, particularly at higher speeds - although not really an option when at sea motoring through a calm waiting for wind. Re-installing the rudder at sea in the best of conditions is challenging for those that have a swim platform - largely impossible otherwise.

10.

OPERATION UNDER SAIL

UNDER SAIL - HYDROVANE NOT IN USE

     1.

VANE LOCK pin in to hold vane vertical

     2.

RATIO KNOB in neutral position.

     3.

SHAFT LOCK pin out to leave rudder free.

UNDER SAIL - USING HYDROVANE

     1.

Remove the VANE LOCK pin and ensure that the SHAFT LOCK pin is out.

     2.

Sail the yacht onto the desired course.

     3.

Adjust the sails for good balance.

     4.

Turn the windvane until it is approximately in line with the wind direction (balance weight pointing into wind). On the VXA1, slacken the COURSE CLAMP knob, turn the vane round using the knob and tighten it in the position required. On the VXA2 pull one or other of the COURSE SETTING LINES

     5.

Secure the wheel or tiller in the position to hold the best course. This should be done firmly so that the boat's rudder cannot move.

     6.

Pull out the RATIO KNOB and move it into one of the three operating positions to engage the Hydrovane. Adjust the vane axis - SEE BELOW.

     7.

After the yacht has settled down onto a steady course adjust the course setting as in 4 if necessary.

11.

VARIABLE RATIO CONTROL AND ADJUSTABLE VANE AXIS ANGLE

_

Left - Variable ratio Control ... Right - Knob for Adjusting Vane Axis

The variable ratio control and adjustable vane axis combine to give the Hydrovane the capacity to respond accurately in a wide range of wind and sea conditions. When using the Hydrovane for the first time:

• Slacken the AXIS CLAMP knob, and using the balance weight as a handle
• Incline the axis to about its mid-position.
• Tighten the AXIS CLAMP
• RATIO KNOB in its 3rd position (middle)
• Observe the performance of the unit:
  • If the yacht is moved repeatedly through the correct heading, the vane is too sensitive and the vane axis should be inclined farther.
  • If the yacht returns too slowly to the correct heading, increase sensitivity by moving the vane axis nearer horizontal (vane vertical).
  • If necessary, combine these adjustments with alterations in the position of the RATIO KNOB to obtain optimum performance.
• In general, the vane will be vertical or nearly so when sailing close hauled, and inclined more as the apparent wind moves astern.
• RATIO KNOB positions are:
  
  

On some yachts a single setting of both vane axis angle and ratio knob position may prove satisfactory under most conditions. On others different combinations of ratio and axis angle will greatly improve performance for different wind strengths and points of sailing.

GENERAL REPAIRS AND MAINTENANCE

12.

BEARINGS

HYDROVANE VXA1/VXA2 - MODELS PRODUCED IN 1986 ONWARDS TO REPLACE RUDDER SHAFT BEARINGS

PLEASE READ THROUGH COMPLETELY, IDENTIFYING EACH COMPONENT BEFORE STARTING WORK ON THE UNIT.

Because the rudder shaft has a reduced diameter just below the top bearing, the shaft can only be removed downwards. To change the bottom bearing, without the use of special tools, the top bearing is first removed, using the rudder shaft to knock it our upwards. The shaft can then also be used to knock out the bottom bearing.

 1.

With pin 61 inserted, move the ratio knob to the least rudder movement position.

 2.

Slacken bolt 58 and bolts 55.

 3.

Remove the pin 61 and lift the drive unit off the rudder shaft.Remove the fork arm 71 from the top of the rudder shaft as it becomes free.

 4.

If the drive unit can not be moved upwards, remove one of the bolts 55 and screw it into the threaded hole between the two bolt 55 locations, until it touches the casting on the other side of the gap.Now tighten this bolt carefully, a quarter turn at a time (so opening the drive unit frame casting around the rudder shaft tube) until the drive unit can be lifted off.

 5.

Slacken screw 46 and remove the collar 26.

 6.

Pin 28 in the collar 27 prevents the rudder shaft from dropping downwards out of the rudder tube 29.Before knocking out this pin, if the unit is mounted on the boat, brace a safety line upwards from the rudder retaining pin hole to take the weight of the shaft and prevent its loss if it drops through the tube.

 7.

Remove pin 28 (the pin 61, removed from its string, can be used for this, since it is fractionally smaller in diameter that 28).Remove collar 27 and the 19 nylon balls below this collar.

 8.

When the shaft is below the top bearing, it can be used to knock out this bearing upwards.Try to keep the shaft in contact with the inside of the tube as it is moved up and down, to avoid any damage to the bottom of the bearing.

 9.

After the top bearing is removed, the shaft can be lifted above the bottom bearing and used to knock this bearing downwards and out of the tube.TO DO THIS, THE SAFETY LINE FROM THE RUDDER PIN HOLE WILL BE REMOVED AND CAN INSTEAD BE ATTACHE DOT ONE OF THE TWO HOLES AT THE TOP OF THE SHAFT.

 10.

The shaft bearings 24 and 25 can be replaced using a soft-faced hammer, or a steel hammer, using a plastic or timber pad on the bearing flange.

 11.

Slide the shaft back in and replace the collar 27 and the 19 nylon balls 31.Replace the bottom collar 26 so that the shaft has a small vertical clearance - about 0.015 inches (the thickness of a piece of card from a cigarette packet).

 12.

 Replace the drive unit after reviewing the installation instructions - 'Assembly of Drive Unit and Shaft'

MID BEARING

In mid 2008 changes were made to the bearings:

• Material changed from Delrin to PTFE
• New ‘Mid Bearing’ added
  
  

INSTALATION OF THE MID BEARING – recommended for bigger and faster boats

All new shaft assemblies have the mid bearing included. Not so for pre mid 2008 units.

1. HAND FILE RIDGE - The bearing can be inserted in either end of the shaft tube. A cavity has been machined out of each end of the tube for the bearings. You can feel a lip or ridge at the end of the cavity caused by the machining (not noticeable in new assemblies – has a smoother transition) – the edge between the machined section and the unmachined wall of the tube. That ridge must be filed down – otherwise there is not enough space for the Mid Bearing to fit in the tube. This will take a bit of work.
   
   
2. DEVISE A ‘PUSHER’ – A suitable ram must be devised to push the bearing half way up the tube. Suggestion: 1inch (50mm) plumbing PVC pipe – add the related cap – the cap has an OD of 42mm or 1.65 inches – about right.
   
   
3. SOAP INSIDE - Mix dish soap in water then pour some in the tube and slosh it around so the surface is slippery.
   
   
4. Carefully insert the Mid Bearing (has two rubber ‘O’ rings) so that it is clear of that machined lip.
   
   
5. Ram it up to a position of about half way up the tube.
   
   
6. Proceed with installing the other two bearings.
   
   

NOTE AGAIN THAT IF THE UNIT IS FITTED TO THE BOAT, ALWAYS HAVE A SAFETY LINE TIED THROUGH ONE OF THE HOLES IN THE EMERGENCY TILLER TO ENSURE THAT THE FORK CASTING CAN NOT BE DROPPED OVERBOARD AND LOST.

13.

BALL SOCKETS - CHANGE

Using an Allen key, slacken ball socket screws 43 - under the aft end of the bottom lever 69. Push the sockets out sideways by moving ball screw 57 at the bottom of con-rod 63 to one side and the other. This should allow sufficient purchase on the outer end of the sockets to enable them to be pulled out.

Insert the new sockets and tighten the screws 43 to leave a small but distinct clearance between ball and sockets.

Because the screws are held in with locking fluid, they may be difficult to turn. Try alternative tightening and slackening to free them. Remove the socket screws completely, apply locking fluid and replace. If the screws are damaged, replace the screws with new.

14.

DRIVE SLEEVE - CHANGE

1. Using an Allen key, slacken ratio screw 45 a few turns to ensure it is clear of the retaining groove in ratio rod 35.
   
   
2. The ratio rod is now free to drop downwards - take care not to lose it.
   
   
3. Remove ratio rod and drive sleeve 19.
   
   
4. Remove ratio screw completely, apply locking fluid and screw partly back in. Replace new drive sleeve, insert ratio rod and tighten ratio screw.
   
   
5. Having 'cracked' the original locking fluid, the ratio screw should turn without too much difficulty.
   
   
   
   
   

15.

VANE AXIS DISC AND/OR BOBBIN - CHANGE

NOTE: IF BOBBIN IS REPLACED, WITHOUT CHANGING VANE AXIS DISC, USE STEPS 2, 6 AND 8 ONLY.

NOTE: IN THE DRIVE UNIT THERE ARE 8 AXLES 47 AND AXLE SCREW 40.BE SURE TO IDENTIFY THE CORRECT ONES - THAT RELATE TO THE COMPONENT BEING CHANGES. USE LOCKING FLUID FOR ALL SCREWS THAT ARE THREADED INTO CASTINGS.

 1.

For ease of handling, remove the balance weight - bolts 52.

 2.

Remove con-rod bolt 49 and detach con-rod top 68 from con-rod 63.

 3.

Remove appropriate axles 47 by slackening their axle screws 40 and lift off vane lever 65.

 4.

Remove axis knob 33 and tilt bolt cover 12. Remove locking nuts, washer and tilt bolt washer 11 from axis bolt 38.Pull out vane axis disc 8 from top mounting casting 66. Screw out axis bolt 38 and the other washer under its head, remove the large vane axis washer 9 and replace these on the new vane axis disc.

 5.

Install new vane axis disc and vane axis washer into the top mounting casting. The tilt stop stud can be seen projecting from the top mounting casting. The small hole in the vane axis washer and the larger hole in the vane axis disc are both fitted over this stud.Replace the plastic tilt bolt washer, the stainless washer and the two locking nuts on the axis bolt. Tighten the locking nuts so that the vane lever can be moved on the axis bolt, but is quite stiff. Replace the tilt bolt cover and the axis knob.

 6.

If the bobbin 3 is to be replaced, slacken its axle screw 40 and remove its axles 47. Remove con-rod top by taking off the lock nut and outer washer of the bobbin bolt 50 and screwing the bobbin bolt out of the con-rod top, together with the white bobbin washer 17.Place 50 and 17 in the new bobbin, in their original positions, and re-fit to the con-rod top. Note that the head of the bobbin bolt, with a stainless washer under it, sits in the deeper recess in the bobbin, and the bobbin washer lies between the con-rod top and lock nut, tighten the bobbin bolt so that there is a small but distinct clearance between the con-rod top and the bobbin.

 7.

Re-fit the vane lever to the vane axis disc, with the axles set to leave a small but distinct axial clearance. Re-fit the bobbin into the vane lever in a similar manner.

 8.

Re-fit the con-rod top to the con-rod. Before the con-rod bolt is tightened, conduct the following set-up check.

With the vane locking pin and the shaft locking pin inserted, check that the ratio knob will move freely from neutral to the 3:1 ratio (far left side) and, with the shaft locking pin removed, that the rudder shaft is free to rotate. If there is any interference between the drive arm and the drive rods, adjust the vertical position of the con-rod top on the con-rod. The hole in the con-rod is lightly oversize to allow this.

 9.

 Replace the balance weight.

16.

RATIO ARM 70 - CHANGE

 1.

The ratio arm 70 is already fitted with the lever bearings 18 and both ratio screws 45.One screw 45 serves to limit the distance the ratio bolt 56 may be screwed into the casting - and the position of this screw may be adjusted, using an Allen key, so that the ratio bolt can be tightened with its washer level with the outside of the ratio knob 21 - see diagram. The other screw 45 holds the ratio rod 35, with the drive sleeve 19, into the ratio arm casting. This screw locates in the groove in the ratio rod.

 2.

If the ratio rod and drive sleeve are not supplied, fit these into the ratio arm casting and tighten one screw 45. Place the ratio arm inside the bottom lever casting 69 and insert the two axles 47, through the axle sleeves 1 in the bottom lever, and into the lever bearings in the ratio arm casting.

Screw in the ratio bolt, with the ratio knob, spring and washer, but do not finally tighten. By tightening the axle screws 40, the axles are located so that:

 3.

When the axles 47 have been finally located and the screws 40 tightened, tighten the ratio bolt 56 against the other ratio screw 45 so that all the bolt head is visible outside the ratio knob 21. If necessary, adjust the position of the ratio screw to achieve the correct position of the ratio bolt.

 4.

With the vane lock pin 60 still inserted, insert the shaft lock pin 61 and check that the ratio knob can be moved from neutral to its 3:1 position. If the drive sleeve will not move freely between the drive rods 36, slacken the fork bolt 58 and move the tiller 23 until the ratio knob moves the drive sleeve freely through its range of movement. Tighten bolt 58.

17.

ASSEMBLY OF DRIVE UNIT ONTO RUDDER SHAFT - WHEN SHAFT IS ALREADY FITTED TO THE BOAT

The usual instructions for the ASSEMBLY OF DRIVE UNIT AND SHAFT should be followed, except that, since the drive unit is to be fitted with the shaft vertically, the following should be noted.

After completing step 5 of the assembly instruction, before tightening the clamping bolts at the bottom of the drive unit frame fully, check that:

 1.

The rudder is pointing aft - if not, rotate the drive unit on the rudder shaft until the rudder is pointing dead aft.

 2.

When the rudder is pointing aft, and with the clamping bolts still not fully tightened, check that the RUDDER LOCK PIN, which locates the drive unit vertically, can be withdrawn and inserted easily. If not, the weight of the drive unit will be resting on the pin and the drive unit will have to be raised slightly until the pin is free. At this stage, check again, that the rudder is still pointing dead aft.

When the rudder is pointing dead aft, and the RUDDER LOCK PIN can be inserted and withdrawn, the two clamping bolts can be finally tightened. Step 7 onwards of the ASSEMBLY OF DRIVE UNIT AND SHAFT can now be followed.

18.

SHORTENING RUDDER SHAFT ASSEMBLY

1. Support shaft in a horizontal position on padded blocks.
2. Place a container below the top of the shaft to collect the 19 nylon balls of the SHAFT BALL RACE 31.
3. Knock out RACE COLLAR PIN 28 and pull off SHAFT RACE COLLAR 27.
4. Remove the SHAFT BOTTOM COLLAR 26.
5. Slide the RUDDER SHAFT 30 until the top end is inside the SHAFT TOP BEARING 24.
6. Use the rudder shaft to knock out the top bearing, rotating the RUDDER TUBE 29 so that the bearing comes out evenly.
7. Slide the rudder shaft until the bottom end is inside the SHAFT BOTTOM BEARING 25 and use the shaft to knock out this bearing.
8. Set up a drilling machine or miller to drill a new hole for the RUDDER PIN 62.This must be exactly on the shaft centre line Drill is 6.4mm diameter.
9. Shorten the shaft and tube by the same amount. This should be done using a lathe. Re-machine the small radius on the bottom edge of the shaft.
10.  Re-fit the bearings in the tube. Use a soft-faced hammer to replace the bearings. Alternatively a steel hammer can be used with an intermediate piece of wood or plastic between hammer and bearings. Ensure the bearings are seated on their flanges, but tap them into their final positions with care to avoid cracking the bearing flanges.
11. Slide the shaft into the tube and stand the assembly on the bottom of the shaft. The reduced diameter at the stop of the shaft will support the tube.
12. Replace the 19 balls, slide on the top collar and replace the retaining pin - in the top hole.
13. Lift the assembly, allowing the shaft to sit down on the ball race, and turn the assembly so that it rests vertically on the top of the shaft.  TAKE CARE TO HOLD THE SHAFT AND TUBE TOGETHER AT THE TOP TO AVOID LOSING THE BALLS AS THE ASSEMBLY IS TURNED UPSIDE DOWN.
14. Replace the bottom collar, tightening the screw so that a small vertical clearance remains.
15. Check the assembly by spinning the tube around the shaft while the assembly is upside down.
    
    

19.

CONVERSION FROM VXA1 (CLAMP COURSE SETTING) TO VXA2 (REMOTE COURSE SETTING). 

1.

VANE LOCK PIN out.  RUDDER LOCK PIN in.  COURSE CLAMP KNOB tight.  Frame case off.

2.

RATIO KNOB to least rudder movement position.

3.

Remove con-rod top clamp bolt 49 and pull out con-rod by pulling balance weight - con-rod top casting 68 is split at back.

4.

Remove collar screw 51 and slacken COURSE CLAMP KNOB.

5.

Lift off top of unit, together with collar 16, from the tube 64.

6.

Remove COURSE CLAMP KNOB, spacer 13 and heading bolt set 39.  Remove bolt with care to avoid twisting casting.  If bolt 39 refuses to move, leave it in place and cut off part of the thread length so that the bolt becomes the same length as gear clamp bolt 89 supplied.

7.

Remove bearing screw 59 and remove bearing 15 upwards.

8.

Insert wormwheel 85 upwards to replace bearing 15.  Ensure that wormwheel seats firmly onto bottom of top mounting casting 66.

9.

If bolt 39 has been removed, screw clamp bolt 89, with washer under head, through plain hole first and tighten lightly.  Put on second washer and tighten lock nut.  If bolt 39 remains in lace but has been cut shorter, put on washer and lock nut in place of knob and spacer and tighten lightly.

10.

Worm box casting 86 is supplied with worm assembly 80, 81,82 ,83, 84, 87 and 88 assembled into it.  Slide casting 86 onto tube 64, with 2 inch PTFE washer 90, together with top of unit, WITH WORM AND WORMWHEEL IN MESH.  Washer 90 is positioned between the casting 86 and the wormwheel 85.  Collar 16 must also be in position as the top of the unit is lowered onto the tube.

11.

Replace and tighten collar screw 51.

12.

With the REMOTE LINE FAIRLEADS pointing forwards or any other direction to give a straight run of line, tighten clamping nut 88.  BEFORE TIGHTENING NUT 88, LIFT CASTING 86 SO THAT THE TOP OF THE UNIT SITS ON THE 2 inch PTFE WASHER AND NOT ON THE COLLAR 16.  NOTE ALSO THAT AFTER NUT 88 HAS BEEN TIGHTENED THERE MUST BE A SMALL BUT NOTICEABLE (0.01INCH/0.3MM) vertical clearance between the top of the wormwheel boss and the collar above.  Check this by feeling that the top of the unit can be moved up and down slightly.

13.

Re-connect the con-rod by reversing STEP 3.

14.

The con-rod will now have to be extended by approximately 1/8" (3mm).  Using two spanners, ensure that the two ball screw nuts 57 at the bottom of the con-rod are locked together.  Wind out the ball screw by using a spanner on the upper nut.  The con-rod is the correct length when, with the VANE LOCK PIN in and the RUDDER LOCK PIN out, and the RATION KNOB in the neutral position, the shaft will rotate freely using the EMERGENCY TILLER.

15.

Separate the nuts, run the top nut up tight onto the con-rod bottom washer and tighten the bottom nut onto the top one.

16.

Carry out the final adjustment check: with both the VANE LOCK PIN and the RUDDER LOCK PIN in, the RATIO KNOB should move freely from neutral to the least rudder movement position.  If not, slacken nut 58 and adjust the position of the fork arm casting 71.

17.

THE COURSE SETTING LINE: for smooth operation the lines should pass straight through the fairleads without any significant change in direction. Double blocks can then be used, if necessary, to lead the lines forward around any obstructions. The final anchorage for the line is made using the block, shock cord and hooks provided. The tension in the shock cord is adjusted so that the line does not slip on the grooved wheel 82.

It is intended that the course setting line be made into a continuous loop, preferably using a long splice that will pass easily through the fairleads on the unit. The loop can be made simply by knotting the line. This will limit course setting if a short run of line is used. An endless loop is preferable. A splice might be too bulky. A weld would be best. The nylon ends of the line could be melted with a torch or gas stove and welded/stuck together.

 20.

Installation - Course Control Winch

HYDROVANE TYPES -  VXA I (Series 1200) and VXA II (Series 5000)

(These are pre 1986 models - different than the current models: VXA1 and VXA2)

The winch should be positioned close to the helmsman, on deck or coaming.    Dismantling the drum assembly gives access to the four holes in the base of the winch, for countersunk bolts or self-tapping screws.]

The cable outer sleeve is supplied in a single length to be cut into the two lengths required.  After cutting, the rough edges must be carefully removed, particularly from the inside.  As direct a route as is convenient should be followed from unit to winch and the bends given a radius not less than 3 inches (80mm).  The outer sleeves should be taped together at about 10 inch (250 mm) intervals and secured to the rail, deck or other suitable points.  REMOVE 1/4" (6 mm) OF THE BLACK COATING AT THE ENDS SO THAT THE COPPER TUBE FITS PROPERLY INTO THE PLASTIC ADJUSTER SCREWS .  SCREW THE ADJUSTERS FULLY HOME.

Connect the inner stainless cable to the winch by forming a clove hitch at mid-length around the split pin.  Pull the hitch tight.  To complete this operation the drum will have been removed from its spindle.  Replace the drum but hold it so that its groove is fully accessible and so that the split pin is pointing away from the adjuster screws.  Pass one end of the cable around the drum, past its point of attachment to the split pin, and on through one of the adjuster screws to enter the sleeve and emerge at the unit.  Repeat this with the other end of the cable, winding it in the opposite direction.  The turns are to be laid so that they do not overlap.  Therefore, one end of the cable will be wound upwards to be  received by the upper adjuster and the other end downwards to pass through the lower adjuster.  With the turns correctly laid, ease the drum down its spindle whilst pulling the cables tight.  Replace the washer above the winch drum and tighten the knob with the split pin still pointing away from the adjusters.

Turn the head of the unit round until the clamping bolt in the pulley points exactly aft.  Pass each end of the cable in turn around the drum, past the bolt once and on round the front of the pulley until the end of the cable can be pushed through the hole across the groove.  It may be necessary to push a small screwdriver into the hole from the opposite side to part the clamping sleeves so that the cable will pass through.  Each end of the cable is wound in a direction opposite to the other to enter the hole from each side.  One end is wound downwards to the hole and the other upwards.  There must be no overlaps.  Tension the two ends of the cable as much as possible before tightening the clamping bolt.   Leave an inch of cable protruding from the hole on each side and cut off the remainder.   Slacken the clamp knob at the winch and rotate the winch fully each way.  If the system works smoothly and there are no riding turns at either end.